One that can't spell! Grin But since I have your attention I may as well ask about some photos I just received. They are snap shots of paintings. The man died in 1838. The picture makes him look older then he ought to. He was 60 when he died. I realize this is a painting but if I sent a copy to you to post on the site maybe some one can help me by style of clothes etc. to confirm this is who it says they were. Thanks Pat

Martha, I receive a news letter on using PSP. It has some good tips. Here is the URL http://www.pspPower.com/ In today's E-mail they have an article on skin tones. I need all the help I can get as I am an armature.

Hello folks, I ran across a very interresting and informative article on the state of printing out our genealogy related photos. The Article is titled : "Fight Photo Fade-Out" and discusses four of the major producers of inkjet printers and their current archival status. It has a handy table that provides a list of manuf. printers, Paper types, cost per sheet and years to fade. There are also some handy tips. If interested go to the following URL: Follow the links and look for the icon that tells you to Print out the article for your files (five pages). While this is a good article on whats currently available, I personally don't think we are quite to the stage we would all like to be regarding, costs and longevity of our pictures. http://www.pcworld.com/news/article/0,aid,50663,00.asp George, fading in Eldersburg, MD

Dear List Members, if messages are being posted to the list by a member that does not deal with the subject of the list, PLEASE let it pass. I am taking care of it behind the scene. You do not need to correct the member who posted the incorrect message nor do you need to send to the entire list your unhappiness. I will take care of it for you, quietly and personally with the member who posted the message. Also, I am getting a lot of personal messages asking me to help you unsubscribe as you leave on vacations, etc. I will always be glad to help you unsubscribe if you have a problem or even if you have forgotten how, but just as a reminder if you go to Password Central located at http://passwordcentral.rootsweb.com/ and type in your e-mail address and ask for a list of all Rootsweb lists you belong to, you will, within a few moments receive it via e-mail. You can unsubscribe from any or all of the rootsweb lists you are on from it. I thank you for your continued support. Kathleen Burnett List Mom

http://www.creativememories.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phyllis Cloyd" <pcloyd@earthlink.net> To: <VINTAGE-PHOTOS-L@rootsweb.com> Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 9:22 AM Subject: Re: [VINTAGE-PHOTOS] Writing on photos > Bettie -- > > Does Creative Memories have an on-line catalogue? If so, do you have the > URL? If not, where can I locate the company to purchase the special pencil > for writing on photos? Thanks. > > Phyllis in NJ > > > > Bettie wrote: > > > Creative Memories sells a pencil that will write on the back of photos. > > It is inexpensive and is safe for photos. > > > > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== > > The best and most beautiful things in the world cannot be seen, > > or even touched. They must be felt with the heart. > > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > > > ============================== > > Search over 1 Billion names at Ancestry.com! > > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist1.asp > > > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Vintage-Photos list, use > Vintage-Photos -l-request@rootsweb.com. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > ============================== > Ancestry.com Genealogical Databases > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist2.asp > Search over 2500 databases with one easy query! >

Bettie -- Does Creative Memories have an on-line catalogue? If so, do you have the URL? If not, where can I locate the company to purchase the special pencil for writing on photos? Thanks. Phyllis in NJ Bettie wrote: > Creative Memories sells a pencil that will write on the back of photos. > It is inexpensive and is safe for photos. > > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== > The best and most beautiful things in the world cannot be seen, > or even touched. They must be felt with the heart. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > ============================== > Search over 1 Billion names at Ancestry.com! > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist1.asp

Creative Memories sells a pencil that will write on the back of photos. It is inexpensive and is safe for photos.

Hello everyone, I like the way you synopzied the suggestions. The idea of archival labels on the back of pictures is good although on my less important pictures (too me anyway :) ) I would still use some sort of marker. The other comment is, I'm surprised that anyone can write on the back of the present day photographs with a number 2 pencil. My photographs have that semi-glossy type feel to the back of them and number 2 pencils DO NOT write on them without pressing hard which is why I don't use number 2s. Like some of you mentioned, I don't want to indent the writing to the front. For me, number 2 pencils don't always work. I suppose in this case the labels are a good idea :) If someone is using number 2 pencils that do work, could you tell me the specific brand? And I would like to know the name of the article that said to ONLY use number 2 pencils as someone posted. I like to do research myself sometimes :) Kathy L

Hello all -- There were some interesting suggestions in response to my question about negative film strips. Based upon input from readers of this list, I intend to proceed as follows: 1. I will continue to have my pictures copied at the good photo lab I have found. And I will leave the negatives in strips. I will handle the strips very carefully, touching the edges only. 2. I will give each negative strip a unique number, written on the strip with a special archival marking pen. 3. I will store the negative strips, in numerical order, in archival pages (with negative strip sleeves) in an archival binder. 4. Each photo will be identified on the back with the unique number from the applicable negative strip. FYI -- I never write directly on the back of my photos. I purchased archival (acid-free) labels. I write on the labels and then put the label on the back of the picture. I learned the hard way about writing directly on the back of photos: I found that ball point pens sometimes leave an impression on the front of the photo. If I had to write directly on the back of the photo, I would do so only with a number 2 pencil and not press very hard. I have many old photos more than 100 years old with pencil notations on the back and there is no apparent damage from this method of identification. Phyllis in NJ

I've read that ONLY #2 pencil should be used.

It seems as if the latest virus problem has calmed down, but it would only take one or two of you opening an attachment with a virus to set it off again. It is not over, but it has calmed down. Just this morning I received another on - and did as I suggest you do DELETED IT. Please remember: DO NOT OPEN ANY ATTACHMENT unless you know 100% what it is and who is from and have run a virus scan on it. I don't care how inviting the subject line is, "homepage", "Read this", "The Docs you ask for", etc. . Also please remember that this virus is not being spread via Rootsweb, but is being spread via attachments that are being sent out by rootsweb members. If you want additional information on what a virus is go to http://ca.com/virusinfo/faq.htm it is an informative site. If you don't have a good Virus Scan, I use Norton Anti virus, you need to get one that you trust and fast. If you are not sure what kind to get, you might want to join the virus discussion list to get additional information on the different programs. VIRUS-DISCUSSION-L-REQUEST@ROOTSWEB.COM Again, I appreciate your support as we have gone through the last month or so fighting this problem. I also appreciated your willingness to do all that is necessary to help me fight the problem. Kathleen Burnett List Mom

I found a pen at Hobby Lobby specifically for writing on photos. I suppose that any craft store would have them. It says it is Pigment ink * Photo safe * Acid-free * Archival Quality * Lightfast * Water-proof * Fade-Proof * Non-bleeding. I guess time will tell Pat Bennett ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert E Lewis" <LEWISRE@prodigy.net> To: <VINTAGE-PHOTOS-L@rootsweb.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:09 PM Subject: Re: [VINTAGE-PHOTOS] Negative question (writing # and info on the back of photos) > On the matter of writing the negative # and other information on the back of > photos, does anyone know the best way to do this? What have you found that > is permanent but will not bleed through or otherwise damage the print? I > generally use some fine line ink pen and write close to the edge of the > print so that if it does eventually seep through, the damage will be > minimal. I have also tried writing on adhesive labels and sticking these on > the back but I expect the adhesive will eventually dry out and the labels > fall off. > > Robert E. Lewis > > > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== > NOTICE: Posting of virus warnings, test messages, chain letters, political > announcements, current events, items for sale, personal messages, flames, > etc. (in other words - spam) is NOT ALLOWED and will be grounds for removal. > Consideration for exceptions, contact Kathleen Burnett kathleenburnett@earthlink.net > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > ============================== > Add as many as 10 Good Years To Your Life > If you know how to reduce these risks. > http://www.thirdage.com/health/wecare/hearthealth/index.html

Hello all, My photos come back with the number printed on the back already by the developer. It is very light but readable. On writing on the back of present day photos, I use an extra fine sharpie. They come in various colors and I use the lightest color that I feel is comfortable enough for me to read. At present I am using green. I don't use ink pens because they have a funny odor to them and I think that whatever is causing this odor is probably not good for the photos. I've also found that older photos sometimes have the ink bleeding through. On older photos, I've gone to an art store and purchased the graphite pencils that drafters used to use. Some are extremely soft so I do not need to use a lot of pressure to write. Hope this helps :) Kathy L

I use a ball point pen. I make sure it is fresh. I don't bear down, just a minimal pressure. Then lay them upside down for 20 - 30 seconds. I have rarely had a problem. Besides most processors with do reprints for less than a quarter so a rare problem is cheap compared to having photos with no name or dates one them. Putting names and dates on photos has been on of my life's missions. I spent time with both my grandmothers before they died and was able to get 90% of 3 generation of photos identified. When I see old photo's in antique shops for sale I am so sad. That person is lost. No one knows who they were. Teach your children this. Spend time with your kids and the photos, talk with them and tell them the stories of you and your parents often. Holidays are great for getting out the albums and letting the kids get to know their kin folks. My last speech for awhile Hugs Connie

All of you have some great suggestions. BUT-- If your negatives do not come back in sleeves when they are processed find someone else to process your film. If you can't someone who does, put on white gloves and get them in sleeves. Do not touch anything but the edges. Two reasons, 1 is scratches and 2 is lint. If your processor does not put neg numbers on the back of your pictures do that yourself. I put the name, date, film strip number and neg number on every photo that I shoot. Most camera shops have acid-free sleeves or you can get them online- (Gaylord Archival is one) they are 8 1/2 x 11 and will fit in a 3 ring notebook. You can label each page and/or strip. The date should be written on the back of your picture. Then it's an easy matter to go to your negative file, find the sleeve with the date on it. **** Most important of all is to NOT store your photos and your negatives in the same place. Stuff happens. if you lose the photos you can reproduce with the negatives. Same as if you lose the negs, you can reproduce with the photos. I keep my notebooks of negatives in one room on a high shelf. The photos are in many places. 1/2 in albums or sleeves in notebooks and the other 1/2 in Rubbermaid tubs with the lids cracked. The ones in tubs are those that I'm not finished with yet. When one of the magazines I sell photos too is looking for a shot from a certain area, I go to the albums, hopefully locate a good shot, get the date off the back and then head for the negative notebooks. I recently sold one to Arizona Highways that I took in 1983. Took me about 20 minutes to find it all and get it sent. Making copies of your photos is easy if you have a camera that will take different lenses and you can focus. I use a 50mm lens with close up rings (they come 3 to a set for about $20.)and usually on a copy stand or a tripod. But I have had good luck just holding my camera and bracing it good. and mostly outdoors in the shade. On long trips to relatives I take their photos outdoors and take pictures of them. Esp. all the old ones that they don't want leaving their sight. Connie

On the matter of writing the negative # and other information on the back of photos, does anyone know the best way to do this? What have you found that is permanent but will not bleed through or otherwise damage the print? I generally use some fine line ink pen and write close to the edge of the print so that if it does eventually seep through, the damage will be minimal. I have also tried writing on adhesive labels and sticking these on the back but I expect the adhesive will eventually dry out and the labels fall off. Robert E. Lewis

Actually, Suzanne, it is the acid from the finger prints that can do the most damage. Handling negatives by the edges if they are not in polypropelene sleeves is always recommended. BTW, you could actually cut the individual negatives and mount them in plastic slide mounts but when you take them to the lab, they might still have trouble printing them. Paula As a Creative Memories Consultant I can help you preserve your family photographs & memories in beautiful scrapbook photo albums. Visit www.creativememories.com <http://www.creativememories.com/> and make your wishlist today! -----Original Message----- From: suzyq89 [mailto:suzyq89@prodigy.net] Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 7:56 PM To: VINTAGE-PHOTOS-L@rootsweb.com Subject: Re: [VINTAGE-PHOTOS] Negative question Hi! You have to be very careful with strips. Be sure not to touch them a whole lot for it will eventually rub off the picture. That's what happened to my mom's photos of just a couple years ago in fact. So, it doesn't take to long for them to become damaged. Otherwise, I don't know about cutting them apart. I haven't heard that one. The ones we have came in two's and threes, so I'm also interested if anyone knows about that. Suzanne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phyllis Cloyd" <pcloyd@earthlink.net> To: <VINTAGE-PHOTOS-L@rootsweb.com> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 7:00 AM Subject: [VINTAGE-PHOTOS] Negative question > Hello all -- > > Peggy's recent advice about storing negs with photos brings to mind a > question that has plagued me for some time. > > I have had most of my old photos copied at a photo lab. They do > excellent work and I get good rates. They make 35 mm color negs. The > color negs insure reproduction of the subtle color nuances even for the > black and white and sepia tone pictures. Once I get the neg, I can have > as many copies made as I need or want. > > But the problem is that the negatives are in strips with several > pictures on each strip. I would love to cut apart the negatives so that > I can store each individual negative with a copy of the picture. But > the photo lab strongly advised against cutting the strips into > individual negatives. They said it is hard to work with the individual > negs when they are cut apart. > > Has anyone else had this problem or been given this advice by their > photo lab? > > Phyllis in NJ > > > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== > We have over 223 members of the Vintage-Photos Mailing List. Posting back > to the list helps the whole group, not just one person. If we work as a team, > we'll succeed as a team. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > ============================== > Ancestry.com Genealogical Databases > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist2.asp > Search over 2500 databases with one easy query! > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== We have over 223 members of the Vintage-Photos Mailing List. Posting back to the list helps the whole group, not just one person. If we work as a team, we'll succeed as a team. To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett ============================== Ancestry.com Genealogical Databases http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist2.asp Search over 2500 databases with one easy query!

Hi! You have to be very careful with strips. Be sure not to touch them a whole lot for it will eventually rub off the picture. That's what happened to my mom's photos of just a couple years ago in fact. So, it doesn't take to long for them to become damaged. Otherwise, I don't know about cutting them apart. I haven't heard that one. The ones we have came in two's and threes, so I'm also interested if anyone knows about that. Suzanne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phyllis Cloyd" <pcloyd@earthlink.net> To: <VINTAGE-PHOTOS-L@rootsweb.com> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 7:00 AM Subject: [VINTAGE-PHOTOS] Negative question > Hello all -- > > Peggy's recent advice about storing negs with photos brings to mind a > question that has plagued me for some time. > > I have had most of my old photos copied at a photo lab. They do > excellent work and I get good rates. They make 35 mm color negs. The > color negs insure reproduction of the subtle color nuances even for the > black and white and sepia tone pictures. Once I get the neg, I can have > as many copies made as I need or want. > > But the problem is that the negatives are in strips with several > pictures on each strip. I would love to cut apart the negatives so that > I can store each individual negative with a copy of the picture. But > the photo lab strongly advised against cutting the strips into > individual negatives. They said it is hard to work with the individual > negs when they are cut apart. > > Has anyone else had this problem or been given this advice by their > photo lab? > > Phyllis in NJ > > > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== > We have over 223 members of the Vintage-Photos Mailing List. Posting back > to the list helps the whole group, not just one person. If we work as a team, > we'll succeed as a team. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > ============================== > Ancestry.com Genealogical Databases > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist2.asp > Search over 2500 databases with one easy query! >

You can make each photo into a group of four. that is usually how many the lab needs to work with comfortably. This will cost you a little more in film & developing, but if you have a good camera you can do it yourself thereby saving the costs of someone copying for you. Than is usually the most expensive part. You will need a really good micro lens & you may want a tripod for very small photos. If you don't have lights you may do it outdoors on a nice sunny day. You would be surprised how well you can do yourself. Janet Phyllis Cloyd wrote: > Hello all -- > > Peggy's recent advice about storing negs with photos brings to mind a > question that has plagued me for some time. > > I have had most of my old photos copied at a photo lab. They do > excellent work and I get good rates. They make 35 mm color negs. The > color negs insure reproduction of the subtle color nuances even for the > black and white and sepia tone pictures. Once I get the neg, I can have > as many copies made as I need or want. > > But the problem is that the negatives are in strips with several > pictures on each strip. I would love to cut apart the negatives so that > I can store each individual negative with a copy of the picture. But > the photo lab strongly advised against cutting the strips into > individual negatives. They said it is hard to work with the individual > negs when they are cut apart. > > Has anyone else had this problem or been given this advice by their > photo lab? > > Phyllis in NJ > > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== > We have over 223 members of the Vintage-Photos Mailing List. Posting back > to the list helps the whole group, not just one person. If we work as a team, > we'll succeed as a team. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > ============================== > Ancestry.com Genealogical Databases > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist2.asp > Search over 2500 databases with one easy query! Phyllis Cloyd wrote: > Hello all -- > > Peggy's recent advice about storing negs with photos brings to mind a > question that has plagued me for some time. > > I have had most of my old photos copied at a photo lab. They do > excellent work and I get good rates. They make 35 mm color negs. The > color negs insure reproduction of the subtle color nuances even for the > black and white and sepia tone pictures. Once I get the neg, I can have > as many copies made as I need or want. > > But the problem is that the negatives are in strips with several > pictures on each strip. I would love to cut apart the negatives so that > I can store each individual negative with a copy of the picture. But > the photo lab strongly advised against cutting the strips into > individual negatives. They said it is hard to work with the individual > negs when they are cut apart. > > Has anyone else had this problem or been given this advice by their > photo lab? > > Phyllis in NJ > > ==== VINTAGE-PHOTOS Mailing List ==== > We have over 223 members of the Vintage-Photos Mailing List. Posting back > to the list helps the whole group, not just one person. If we work as a team, > we'll succeed as a team. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > ============================== > Ancestry.com Genealogical Databases > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist2.asp > Search over 2500 databases with one easy query!

Phyllis, whenever I have any 35 mm film developed, it comes back with a warning saying not to cut strips into separate negatives. I've seen the same warning from several different photo labs so I think it is standard. I think it would be much harder to work with the individual negatives than with the strip. It can be difficult to identify a negative if it isn't stored with the photo or you have several photos that are very similar. After having several copies made of a photo that was very similar to the one I wanted to have duplicated, I bought a small inexpensive light table on sale at a craft store. I use it to compare the negative to the photo I want to have duplicated. I am also writing the number of the negative on the strip on the back of each photo now. Whenever possible, I have a "photo index" printed which has a tiny picture with the number of the negative printed below the picture. I keep these photo indexes with the pictures from that group of negatives so that is is easy to tell which photo I want to have duplicated. I'm thinking about scanning the index and printing a copy of it to keep with the negatives. The copy wouldn't need to be high quality; anything clear enough enough to identify the photo and number would ensure that I had the right group of negatives. I recently bought some archival safe Ultra Pro album pages designed to hold only negatives. Each page has 7 slots for negative strips. I plan to put a word processed note in one slot on each sheet to identify the location of the pages containing those pictures. I am beginning to redo my photo albums and am putting the frame number of the negative on the back of each photo. Jackie Phyllis Cloyd wrote: > > Hello all -- > > Peggy's recent advice about storing negs with photos brings to mind a > question that has plagued me for some time. > > I have had most of my old photos copied at a photo lab. They do > excellent work and I get good rates. They make 35 mm color negs. The > color negs insure reproduction of the subtle color nuances even for the > black and white and sepia tone pictures. Once I get the neg, I can have > as many copies made as I need or want. > > But the problem is that the negatives are in strips with several > pictures on each strip. I would love to cut apart the negatives so that > I can store each individual negative with a copy of the picture. But > the photo lab strongly advised against cutting the strips into > individual negatives. They said it is hard to work with the individual > negs when they are cut apart. > > Has anyone else had this problem or been given this advice by their > photo lab? > > Phyllis in NJ >