In Their Moccasins Following the Trail of Tears Through The Ozarks By Mary Griffin The first big crowds of people to pass through the Ozarks didn't come willingly and didn't plan to stay. Nonetheless, the Indian migration down the Trail of Tears left an indelible mark on the region. Now you can follow their route. In 1830, President Andrew Jackson's government ordered that all Indians living east of the Mississippi River had to be removed to the west. In the 1830s, nearly 40,000 people were forced from their homes and marched to Indian Territory in present-day Oklahoma. About a fourth of them died along the way. For pretty obvious reasons, the relocation, and the path taken, became known as the Trail of Tears. Although five tribes-the Cherokee, Chickasaw, Creek, Seminole, and Choctaw-were involved, it is the Cherokee who are most identified with the Trail of Tears. They traveled this way between October 1838 and March 1839. Through the Ozarks The Trail of Tears was not just one trail, but many. All the routes passed through some part of the Ozarks to reach Indian Territory, and all went through Arkansas. The most-traveled route-the so-called Northern Route-entered Missouri at Moccasin Springs in today's Trail of Tears State Park just north of Cape Girardeau. Today, of course, you can cross the Mississippi River at Cape Girardeau on a four-lane bridge. In the winter of 1838, however, 5,000 Cherokee were stranded for three weeks by frigid conditions and ice in the river before they could cross. An observer of the time said, "They died so fast they could not be buried and so the bodies were covered with branches." There were three other main routes. Benge's Route passed through the southeast corner of Missouri. Bell's Route, the most southern, entered Arkansas at Memphis, Tennessee. The water route followed the Tennessee River to the Mississippi and upriver on the Arkansas to Fort Gibson, Oklahoma. None was easy. Other tribes The Choctaw were moved first, in the bitter winter of 1831. The Creek were forced out in 1836 with some 3,500 dying on their Trail. The year 1837 saw the Chickasaw removal with equally dire results. Only the Seminole chose to fight. Their war lasted seven years, the longest war ever fought on U.S. soil. For all their resistance, the Seminole were forced into Oklahoma anyway; the last group arrived in 1843. National Historic Trail In 1987, Congress designated the primary land and water routes as the Trail of Tears National Historic Trail. Six years later, the Trail of Tears National Association was chartered to be a support network for the national trail. Today, thanks to those two organizations, it is possible to follow the path taken so many years ago. Trail of Tears Auto Tour The Trail of Tears National Historic Trail Automobile Tour Route starts in Charleston, Tennessee-the original Trail's head-and ends in Tahlequah, Oklahoma, the capital of the Cherokee Nation. The Tour Route allows you to closely follow the Northern Route and see historic sites associated with the Cherokee Trail on the way. Jerra Quinton, assistant coordinator of the Trail of Tears National Association, notes that "in many places there's not much to see except fields where the Cherokee camped or traveled. That's why it's important to learn about the Trail before you follow the route-the Trail doesn't mean anything without the story of the people who made the journey." For more information about the Trail of Tears Auto Tour The National Park Service (NPS) coordinates activities, and offers technical and limited financial assistance toward preservation, development, and commemoration of the Trail. For a map, call 505-988-6888 or write to the National Park Service National Trail System Office-Santa Fe at PO Box 728 Santa Fe, New Mexico 87504. The NPS has a fine website at www.nps.gov/trte. The Trail of Tears National Association is headquartered in Little Rock at the American Indian Center of Arkansas, 1100 North University, Suite 143, Little Rock, Arkansas 72207-6344. Phone: 501-666-9032. www.nationaltota.org. An excellent website is at http:// www.rosecity.net/tears/trail/tearsnht.html. Mary Griffin writes and gives talks about American Indians and their culture. She can be reached at griffin_mary@msn.com. PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE TRAIL OF TEARS IN ARKANSAS Pea Ridge National Military Park 15930 US 62, Garfield, 479-451-8122, www.nps.gov/peri Contains part of the actual Trail and was the last rations depot before the Cherokee entered Oklahoma North Little Rock Riverfront Park on the Arkansas River, North Shore River Walk North Little Rock, 501-758-1424 On the promenade across from the Old State House, the Trail of Tears National Historic Trail has installed five panels profiling each of the tribes. They are duplicates of the National Park Service panels at the Fort Smith National Historic Site in Fort Smith. Fort Smith National Historic Site On the riverfront, Garland Avenue., Fort Smith Fort Smith was established to control the different tribes, not only those being moved into the area, but those originally there. IN MISSOURI McMurtry Springs Alongside MO 37, about two miles southwest of Cassville Used by the Cherokee traveling along Flat Creek. Bell Tavern site Just outside the south boundary of Wilson's Creek National Battlefield. Go one-half mile south on Wilson Road out of Springfield. The park itself is three-fourths mile south on U.S. 60 to ZZ, then left on 182 to the park. This was another campsite along the Trail. Danforth Farm South of Strafford. Go south from I-44 on MO 125, then west on 112, and south on 213 for one-fourth mile. This is private land on the left. Cherokee campground (the farmhouse on the property dates from after the Cherokee went through) Massey (now Maramec Springs Park) Iron Works MO 8 between Steelville and St. James in Crawford County A stop along the Trail of Tears Snelson-Brinker House Just west of Maramec Springs Park on MO 8, between Steelville and St. James in Crawford County The Cherokee bought corn here and rested before continuing on to Oklahoma. Licking, Missouri Where C dead-ends into MO 32 just east of Licking. In 1839, the last group, led by Peter Hildebrand, veered south, probably in search of food. A small red and white sign marks the Hildebrand Route. Trail segments are visible in several places in Texas and Wright Counties in Missouri. Trail of Tears State Park 429 Moccasin Springs, Jackson, 573-334-1711 While not officially in the Ozarks, the park is worth visiting for anyone interested in the Trail of Tears. The ferry landing for the Northern Route is here, along with memorials to Jesse Bushyhead and his sister Nancy Bushyhead Hildebrand. There is also a visitors' center and museum. IN OKLAHOMA Woodhall Homeplace U.S. 62 just across the Arkansas/Oklahoma border in Oklahoma Another Cherokee resting place Tahlequah Although it was not the end of the original Trail, Tahlequah is the end of the Auto Route today. It is also the capital of today's Cherokee Nation. The original capital, courthouse, and prison are still there to be seen. The Cherokee Nation Supreme Court Building, built in 1844, is the oldest public building in Oklahoma. To let you know you are in the Cherokee Nation, the signs in town are in both English and Cherokee. A few miles south on U.S. 62 is Park Hill, where Chief John Ross is buried. The Cherokee Heritage Center is there on the site of the old Cherokee Women's Seminary. Park Hill From Tahlequah, go west on U.S. 62, then left on Willis Road Cherokee Heritage Center From Heritage Center, go left on Willis Road., left at Murrell House (road deadends here), right at stop sign, left at yellow blockhouse (old schoolhouse). Sign on gate. John Ross Cemetery Murrell House Go left on Willis Road. from Heritage House John Ross stayed with the Murrell family. Ft. Gibson Follow U.S. 62 about a half hour farther to OK 80 and then south a few miles to Fort Gibson, the real terminus of the Trail. The fort, now restored for visitors, is where the Cherokee ended their journey and gathered before dispersing into their new lands in Indian Territory. The original fort was open between 1824 and 1893 for the purpose of keeping peace among the many tribes, both settled and newcomers, in Indian Territory.