Hello Fiona: Thanks for the welcome, and we too may visit in 2004. The National Geographic article i referred to in my mail was the June 1998 issue, and I will see about getting this in an e-friendly format that I can email. I'm pleased to know that the list you mention of is global - but ofcourse, it should be foremost that us visitors (note that I did not use "tourists") must see that we keep the Islands in their splendid natural state as we found them. You indicate that you are from York, UK. How far from Thirsk? All the Best. Vikram//.