A couple of weeks ago I sent out a message on care and preservation of photos and documents. One of the replies I got (from someone who was in the photography business) had some additional information that I thought might be of interest to all of you. With his permission I am passing it along. Note: As for the the $90 per photo (see last sentence), I think it may well depend on where you live. I happened to live in one of the more expensive urban areas and prices are set accordingly. Those in other, less expensive areas, might do well to check with your local photographers. ************************** Just a couple of comments on reproducing methods: The cost of going to a professional photographer seems high to me. The key might be the word professional. Many one hour labs do copy work much cheaper than that. You might need to specify whether you want color paper or film used, or true B&W. True B&W will be more expensive and harder to find a lab, but is recommended for archival work. The Kodak Photomaker-type machines do great work, but what you aren't told is that the paper they used is a thermal paper. That is not necessarily bad, but it is more heat sensitive than actual photographic paper. The manufacturers say it will last as long as photographic paper befroe fading or discoloring, but I have never seen independant test results that confirm this. There are independant labs that have rated Fuji and Kodak photographic (color) paper as lasting up to 100 years or more, with proper storing. (Side note: Fuji got the best scores of all the papers tested). If you use a photocopier (like Kinkos), or your computer printer at home (regardless of which paper or type of printer you have, laser or bubblejet), you are using watersoluable (sp?) inks (that are usually non-archival), and getting a lower quality print, too. Not only the paper needs to be archival quality. And a laser printer can't "pull" anything out of an image .. it is a printer, not a scanner. It prints what the computer tells it to. The truest "archival" way to keep images is to use good old "true" B&W film (not the type that can be processed in color chemistry (Kodak T400CN, Kodak Select, or Ilford XP 1 or 2), and have it printed on "true" B&W paper (not color paper, but printed with a sepia tint, or as close to B&W as the lab could get it). Then the only variable on the process is the condition of the chemicals, and that they adhered to the process specs (proper chemical temp, and time in each chemical). I wouldn't recommend letting an amateur with a home darkroom try it for me). That may require a custom lab, which might be more expensive, but I would not expect it to be anywhere close to $90 a photo.

Hi folks, I'm unsubscribing from all my list this weekend for a few months. Here is my surnames [please contact me directly at [email protected]] ABATO/ABATE-ITALY>RI>NJ>MO [Antonio 1870; Eugene P. "Gino" "Mike" 1910; Eugene Anthony Alfred "Gino" 1934] BARTLETT-TN [Nathan; Joshue; Naricissa 1831] BURRIS-NC>VA>OH>MO [William Sr. 1763; George 1790; Cynthia 1820] CAMPBELL-TN>MO>AL [Mary "Polly" abt. 1810] DEWITT-?ME>NJ>IA [Eleanor 1796] DUNN-PA>NJ>IA>MO [Henry; John 1791; Edmund 1823; Lillie 1859] ESTES-IL>MO [Bird 1788; Wilson 1814; Elisha M.1847; James B. 1871; William Oscar abt.1890] EWING-IRELAND>VA>WV>OH>MO [William abt. 1690; James 1720; John 1747; Lydia 1793] FLEEMAN-VA>MO [Jane E. abt. 1833] GREEN-SC [Sallie 1795] GREGORY-NC>IL>MO [William H. abt. 1793; James Marion 1844; Jo Ann 1871] HAWK-OH>MO [John 1817; Martha 1842] HERREN-VA>TN>MO [Richard "Dickie" 1761; William 1812; Amanda 1831] HERREN-VA>TN>MO [Richard "Dickie" 1761; Wiseman 1818; Martin Hickman 1865; David Edgar 1910] JOYCE-VA>NC>OH> [Thomas 1725; Alexander 1750; William B. 1797; Narissa 1834] MANCINI-ITALY>MO [Luciano 1857; Ernesto 1885; Antonio 1909] MCDANIEL-MD>OH>MO [George 1800; Horatio 1828; Franklin P. 1855; Dewey Everett 1899; William R. 1922] MEDLEY-TN [Mary "Polly" 1809] MILLER-WV>OH [Nancy 1809] MITCHELL-PA/MD>TN>MO>CA [John; Morris 1762; Elisha 1804; James Campbell ''J.C." 1828; Elwiza Josephine 1862] MOORE-IN>?>MO>KS>CA [Jonathan 1829; James Edgar 1867; Wesley May "Mary" 1896] NOVELLO-ITALY>RI [Josephine abt. 1870] PHILLIPS-TN [Sarah "Sallie" 1831] RANDALL-ME>IA>MO[John 1785; Ephraim "Richard H." 1807; Esther 1833] SARGARENT-N. IRELAND>VA>[Margaret abt. 1722] SHANGLER-OH [Elizabeth abt. 1830] SLAUGHTER-VA>OH>IL>MO[Ezekial abt. 1779; Robert Turner 1807; Milton B. 1834; Ida May 1862] SKEETERS-IN>MO>? [Mary 1830] SMITH-SCOTLAND/IRELAND>OH [John; Ann 1754] SMITH-[Mary 1750] STAHL-NJ [Anna May abt. 1915] THOMAS-NC>TN>MO [Camm 1763; William 1791; Jesse 1821; Jesse 1865; Armentie 1892] THOMPSON- [Letitia] TOURTELLOTT-FRANCE>RI>CT>ME>IA>MO [Abraham 1655; Abraham 1697.98; Abraham 1724/25; Abraham 1744-46; Thomas B 1786; Almira 1812] WALKER-TN>MO [Hiram 1824; Martha 1845] WAT[T]ERSON-NC>TN [William E. 1819; Lucy 1865] WILLIAMS-NJ>OH>MO [Abraham abt. 1830; Arista Kimble "A.K." 1853] YOUNG-[Elizabeth 1780] Please contact me directly [email protected]!swbell.net Thank you, Ruth

The Jefferson County Chapter, of the Ohio Genealogical Society is canceling it's regular March meeting tonight due to inclement weather. Family researchers are always welcomed to attend. Scheduled meetings and programs are posted on the www at: http://www.rootsweb.com/~ohjefogs/calendar.htm JEFFERSON COUNTY CHAPTER, OGS http://www.rootsweb.com/~ohjefogs/ Julia A. Krutilla, V. P.

Naturalization records in Ohio can be found in the Common Pleas Court; Columbiana Co. Genealogical Soc. has copied all the naturalization records. What surname are you looking for? Birth Record in Ohio do not start until 1867 and if they where recorded can be found in Probate Court. You may want to check with Sandy Day at the Schiappa Library to see if they have the records on mircofilm. Jean ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carol Montrose" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 8:03 PM Subject: Re: Naturalization Records > Naturalization intent and records could be recorded in ANY COURT OF RECORD > ...not even the same for both papers.... > In Ohio, you might check the Chancery Court before the 1850's when Probate > was formed...then look there. After 1909 you may have to go to Immigration & > Naturalization District office.... > > Carol > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Janice G. Donley <[email protected]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 5:49 PM > Subject: Re: Naturalization Records > > > > >Where would I look? Also, does anyone have a contact in Columbiana > > >who can help me with tracking down a naturalization application which the > > >court > > >house claims they can not find! > > > > Hello Tim, > > > > I don't know what the situation is in Ohio but I just tried to find an > > application for Naturalization in Allegheny County, PA. I had the > > original certificate so knew there had been one issued in Allegheny > > County, PA. > > > > The Prothonotary's Office in Pittsburgh (county seat of Allegheny County) > > told me they didn't have the Petition for Declaration of Intent but I > > should try the National Archives and Records Administration Office in > > Philadelphia. > > > > I just got back notice that Philadelphia had found the Declaration of > > Intent for my ancestor and I had to send them $10.00 for them to send me > > a copy. > > > > This Office is for the Mid-Atlantic Region. This does NOT include Ohio, > > but Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia and West Virginia. There > > must be another office that includes Ohio. Philadelphia gives the > > following as its website: > > > > http://www.nara.gov/regional/philac.html > > > > You may find a link there to the regional office that covers Ohio. > > --------- > > Philadelphia also said that the Court did not keep duplicates of the > > Certificate of Naturalization but that the certificate was given to the > > petitioner at the time they gained citizenship. > > And: > > In the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries an alien could apply for > > naturalization in ANY court: city, county, state, or federal. The > > naturalization records are held by each court or their repository. We > > hold only Federal court records. > > And: > > Naturalization has never been a requirement for living in the United > > States. Therefore, your ancestor may have NEVER applied for United States > > citizenship. > > > > > > ============================== > > Ancestry.com Genealogical Databases > > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist2.asp > > Search over 2500 databases with one easy query! > > > > > > > ============================== > Shop Ancestry - Everything you need to Discover, Preserve & Celebrate > your heritage! > http://shop.myfamily.com/ancestrycatalog > >

Naturalization intent and records could be recorded in ANY COURT OF RECORD ...not even the same for both papers.... In Ohio, you might check the Chancery Court before the 1850's when Probate was formed...then look there. After 1909 you may have to go to Immigration & Naturalization District office.... Carol ----- Original Message ----- From: Janice G. Donley <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 5:49 PM Subject: Re: Naturalization Records > >Where would I look? Also, does anyone have a contact in Columbiana > >who can help me with tracking down a naturalization application which the > >court > >house claims they can not find! > > Hello Tim, > > I don't know what the situation is in Ohio but I just tried to find an > application for Naturalization in Allegheny County, PA. I had the > original certificate so knew there had been one issued in Allegheny > County, PA. > > The Prothonotary's Office in Pittsburgh (county seat of Allegheny County) > told me they didn't have the Petition for Declaration of Intent but I > should try the National Archives and Records Administration Office in > Philadelphia. > > I just got back notice that Philadelphia had found the Declaration of > Intent for my ancestor and I had to send them $10.00 for them to send me > a copy. > > This Office is for the Mid-Atlantic Region. This does NOT include Ohio, > but Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia and West Virginia. There > must be another office that includes Ohio. Philadelphia gives the > following as its website: > > http://www.nara.gov/regional/philac.html > > You may find a link there to the regional office that covers Ohio. > --------- > Philadelphia also said that the Court did not keep duplicates of the > Certificate of Naturalization but that the certificate was given to the > petitioner at the time they gained citizenship. > And: > In the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries an alien could apply for > naturalization in ANY court: city, county, state, or federal. The > naturalization records are held by each court or their repository. We > hold only Federal court records. > And: > Naturalization has never been a requirement for living in the United > States. Therefore, your ancestor may have NEVER applied for United States > citizenship. > > > ============================== > Ancestry.com Genealogical Databases > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist2.asp > Search over 2500 databases with one easy query! > >

>Where would I look? Also, does anyone have a contact in Columbiana >who can help me with tracking down a naturalization application which the >court >house claims they can not find! Hello Tim, I don't know what the situation is in Ohio but I just tried to find an application for Naturalization in Allegheny County, PA. I had the original certificate so knew there had been one issued in Allegheny County, PA. The Prothonotary's Office in Pittsburgh (county seat of Allegheny County) told me they didn't have the Petition for Declaration of Intent but I should try the National Archives and Records Administration Office in Philadelphia. I just got back notice that Philadelphia had found the Declaration of Intent for my ancestor and I had to send them $10.00 for them to send me a copy. This Office is for the Mid-Atlantic Region. This does NOT include Ohio, but Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia and West Virginia. There must be another office that includes Ohio. Philadelphia gives the following as its website: http://www.nara.gov/regional/philac.html You may find a link there to the regional office that covers Ohio. --------- Philadelphia also said that the Court did not keep duplicates of the Certificate of Naturalization but that the certificate was given to the petitioner at the time they gained citizenship. And: In the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries an alien could apply for naturalization in ANY court: city, county, state, or federal. The naturalization records are held by each court or their repository. We hold only Federal court records. And: Naturalization has never been a requirement for living in the United States. Therefore, your ancestor may have NEVER applied for United States citizenship.

I am looking for birth certicates in Jefferson county in the 1800's, if they exist. Where would I look? Also, does anyone have a contact in Columbiana who can help me with tracking down a naturalization application which the court house claims they can not find! tim kavulla [email protected]

Several weeks ago I sent a message out to several lists asking for input from other readers concerning care and identification of old photographs. The response was overwhelming and I want to thank all of you for your responses. In response to several requests, I am sharing the information I received. Some of the information was sent to me directly and some was sent only to one or two lists so there may be some repetition of information already received. I have tried to put the information into a more condensed format. In addition, just this week my local genealogy and history library sponsored a lecture on care of old photographs. I am also including information from that lecture. ******** The following information was provided by several listers. It is rather long, but I include it verbatim because it contains some excellent background information. The entire article which contains additional information on Daguerreotypes, Calotypes, Ambrotypes, Revenue Stamps, Stereotypes and Wet Plate Prints, can be found at the following site. Although this is a commercial site, the information is certainly useful to the amateur genealogist. http://www.classyimage.com/picdate.htm DATING THE TINTYPES Introduction 1856 - 1860. The earliest tintypes were on heavy metal (0.017 inches thick) that was never again used. They are stamped "Neff's Melainotype Pat 19 Feb 56" along one edge. Many are found in gilt frames or in the leather or plastic (thermomolded) cases of the earliest ambrotypes. Size range from one-sixth plate to full plate. Civil War Period 1861 - 1865. Tintypes of this time are primarily one-sixth and one-fourth plate and are often datable by the Potter's Patent paper holders, adorned with patriotic stars and emblems, that were introduced during the period. After 1863 the paper holders were embossed rather than printed. Uncased tintypes have been found with canceled tax stamps adhered to the backs. The stamps date these photographs to the period of the Wartime Retail Tax Act, 1 Sept. 1864 to 1 Aug. 1866. Brown Period 1870 - 1885. In 1870 the Phoenix Plate Co. began making plates with a chocolate-tinted surface. They created a sensation among the photographers throughout the country, and the pictures made on the chocolate-tinted surface soon became the rage. During this period "rustic" photography also made its debut with its painted backgrounds, fake stones, wood fences and rural props. Neither the chocolate tint nor the rustic look are to be found in pre-1870 tintypes. Gem Period 1863 - 1890. Tiny portraits, 7/8 by 1 inch, or about the size of a small postage stamp, became available with the invention of the Wing multiplying cameras. They were popularized under the trade name Gem and the Gem Galleries offered the tiny likeness at what proved to be the lowest prices in studio history. Gem Galleries flourished until about 1890, at which time the invention of roll film and family cameras made possible larger images at modest cost. It was no longer necessary to visit a studio that specialized in the tiny likeness. Gem portraits were commonly stored in special albums with provision for a single portrait per page. Slightly larger versions also existed. Some Gems were cut to fit lockets, cufflinks, tie pins, rings and even garter clasps. Carnival Period 1875 - 1930. Itinerant photographers frequently brought the tintype to public gatherings, such as fairs and carnivals. They came equipped with painted backdrops of Niagara Falls, a beach, a boat, and other novelty props for comic portraits. Postmortems. In the nineteenth century it was common to request a photographer to make a deathbed portrait of a loved one. THE CABINET CARD (approx. 1866 - 1906). A card stock product, nearly four times the size of previous photographs on card stock. The larger size created new problems of photographic quality. Flaws that were not obvious in the smaller cards now became very visible. This gave rise to a new skill of photo retoucher. Success in retouching led to innovations in the darkroom and at the camera. Diffusion of the image reduced the need for retouching. This led to verbal skirmishes between photographers who insisted in "truth in photography". Opponents called retouching degenerating, demoralizing, and untruthful practices. Cabinet cards can be further dated by color of stock, borders, corners and size. QUICK DATING GUIDE TO CABINET CARDS The earliest American-made cabinet cards have been dated only to the post- Civil War period, beginning in 1866. Design and colors of these cards followed those of the cards of that time. Cabinet cards are rarely found after 1906. Card Colors: 1866 - 1880 White card stock of a light weight. 1880 - 1890 Different colors for face and back of mounts. 1882 - 1888 Face of buff, matte-finished, with a back of creamy-yellow, glossy. Borders: 1866 - 1880 Red or gold rules, single and double lines. 1884 - 1885 Wide gold borders. 1885 - 1892 Gold beveled edges. 1889 - 1896 Rounded corner rule of single line. 1890 - 1892 Metallic green or gold impressed border. 1896 Impressed outer border, without color. Corners: 1866 - 1880 Square, lightweight mount. 1880 - 1890 Square, heavy board with scalloped sides. -Photographs mounted on card stock- The most popular mount sizes were: Carte-de-visite 4 1/4" x 2 1/2" Cabinet card 6 1/2" x 4 1/2" Victoria 5" x 3 1/4" Promenade 7" x 4" Boudoir 8 1/2" x 5 1/4" Imperial 9 7/8" x 6 7/8" Panel 8 1/4" x 4" Stereograph 3" x 7" ******** That said, at the lecture I attended I also learned the following bits of information which I did not see in at the site listed above: * Newspapers were able to use photographs starting in the 1880s. Prior to that they used only woodblock type prints. * Color photoraphy was first introduced about 1935. * The first black and white Polaroid photos were introduced in 1947. * The first colour Polaroid photos came out in 1968. ******** Preserving Your Photos and Documents There were two particularly useful sites on this topic. They are: http://www.gcah.org/care.html which is an archival leaflet covering the handling and care of photographs; and. http://aboutimage.net/preserving.html which is a genealogists guide the the care and preservation of old, treasured family photographs. The basics are that photographs have two enemies: chemicals and the environment. Don't store your photos in attics or basements (unless it is a finished basement with a controlled temperature). They need a constant temperature such as that your own body finds comfortable. Ideally between 69 and 72 degrees. Don't expose your photos to light. If you want to display a particular photo, have a copy made of it and use the copy for display purposes. Light will destroy them. Colour photos are particularly susceptible to light deterioration. Get them out of any album that does not use acid free paper or acid free photo corners. But make sure when you do this, that you don't lose identifications if they are written next to the photo. Get them out of the sticky type albums (the "magnetic" stick type with the plastic sheet that lays over the photo. Again, make sure you do not lose the identifying data when you do this. Don't ever glue a photo into an album. If you have a photo that is glued into an old album, copy it and preserve the copy. Don't try to clean old tintypes. One suggestion was to call the Kodak Info Center at 1-800-242-2424 or a local museum. I would rather not try this. This is a job for a professional. The best suggestion was to copy them. (See copying below.) Tintypes: Sometimes the "dirty" appearance is due to dust or mildew inside the glass in the frame. Carefully remove from the frame and clean the glass. (There may be a problem with cleaners here so you might want to check before you do it.) If the tintype is not behind glass, any attempt to clean could damage it in some way. If you must frame them, don't use wood frames. Wood contains acid when can damage the photos. Stainless steel or aluminum is acceptable. Again, make sure all matting used is acid free and Ph balanced and that the glass protects the photo from ultra violet light. A good framer should be able to tell you if acid free materials are used and if the glass (or plexiglass) is ultra violet safe. It is best that the framed photo (or document) be sealed in back with paper to keep out air. Don't back your photos with cardboard. Don't stack photos directly on top of each other. They will eventually stick together. Don't ever staple them, paperclip them, or hold them together with rubber bands. Never store a piece of newspaper with a photo or old document. Newspaper is highly acidic and will eventually cause an image on whatever it is stored with. Newspaper will deteriorate. If you have an old newspaper article you wish to preserve, make a photocopy of it and preserve the photocopy. Newspaper stock was not designed to last and will eventually become brittle and crumble. Don't use ball point or felt tip pens to write names on photos. Pencil is acceptable but not ideal. There are special pens for this purpose that may be purchased from an achival supply company. The archival leaflet site listed above contains a number that you can call for a catalogue which sells archival supplies. I'm sure there are others, but this is the only one I have at this time. Supplies can also be bought through photography suppliers. Don't ever laminate photos or documents you wish to preserve. If you do have laminated photos, documents or newspaper articles, make copies of them and preserve properly. Don't ever roll photos into a tube for storage. They will eventually dry out and crack. The archival leaflet listed above details a process for humidifying and relaxing rolled up photos. Make copies of your photos and documents before they deteriorate and store the new copies properly. (See copying below.) Ordinary photocopy paper is normally acid free. However, to be sure, look for a statement that it is on the package. I use a multi system printer paper which I was pleased to see does state that it is acid free. Don't use recycled paper. It is acid. Do store photos and tintypes in acid free archival quality photo sleeves. These can be full page size or two, four or six photos to a page size. They can then be put into a notebook or hanging files and kept out of the light or they can be stacked and stored in special acid free archival boxes. The latter are available through catalogue suppliers or quality photo stores. If you store more than one photo back to back in a sleeve, be sure they do not touch one another. You can avoid this by putting a piece of acid free paper between the two photos. If you have a photo or document too large for a normal page size sleeve, you can encapsulate it. The main idea here is to preserve it by keeping the air out. Encapsulation is accomplished by placing the photo or document on a sheet of acid free Mylar, putting ordinary double sided tape about an inch beyond the the top and bottom edges of the photo or document, lifting the protective film over the tape and repeating the process about an inch from the side of the photo or document. The tape must overlap. Remove the protective film from the tape and place a second sheet of Mylar over the document. Trim outside the tape. Mylar can also be purchased via catalogue. IMPORTANT: Look for the words "safety film" on the edges of old negatives. Negatives prior to the 1940s were done on highly combustible film stock. Even later some photographers continued to use the combustible stock. These negatives have the potential to combust spontaneously and should be stored in acid free paper sleeves inside a fireproof box. These can be purchased at office supply stores as well as other places. Although spontaneous combustion is not likely, it is better to be safe than sorry. ******** Copying Old Photos and Documents There are several ways to do this. You can take them to a reputable professional photographer and have negatives made. You must then store the negatives properly. This is expensive if you have a lot of photos. I was told that the cost in my area (east coast) runs around $90 per photo. I had some done about 15 years ago and it was $75 at that time so I would guess this is figure is in the ballpark. If you do this, you may want to ask the photographer what experience he/she has had working with old photos. You may also want to ask if they do the work themselves or send it out. You can rephotograph them in black and white yourself with a mounted camera or ask a camera shop to recommend someone who does this work. This can be tricky if you don't know what you are doing. You can take them to a self operated photo copier and make the copies yourself. These are the Kodak Phtomaker Machines. I'm sure this varies with areas. In my area Wal-Mart and Kinko's both have self-operated machines that will allow you to make a print for about $6.00. At Wal-Mart you are pretty much on your own. The people at Kinko's will be glad to help you. You can make copies on a special copier that does colour and photos. I'm sure a lot of places have these. I have done them at Kinko's for $1.00 per copy. Make sure you ask for special photo paper. You can use a laser printer. This is something new to me but was one of the suggestions I received for copying tintypes. I was told that the laser printer will pull the picture out of the dark tintype because it bounces off the imprint on the back of the picture. The person who gave me this suggestion said that it worked with other photos of various types that have turned very dark and could no longer be seen. I have no personal experience with this method unless it is the same as one of the copies cited above. You can scan the photo yourself. Scanners are not particularly expensive and are a great addition to your computer if you don't already have one. This process does expose the photo to light, but only on a limited basis. After reading the material received, my husband scanned in my four tintypes and the cabinet photo with excellent results. Once scanned the originals can be stored, you can keep the photo in your computer with a backup disk and you can print copies on photo quality paper that can be purchased from various sources. If you have a lot of photos and don't have money to burn, this is probably the best method. It does require a bit of playing with the brightness and contrast but they do turn out great. There are various software programs for scanning. Some will allow you to clean up and remove blemishes, scratches, etc. Some will scan negatives and print them as finished photos. We used JPEG and it seemed to work well, however TIFF format was recommended as giving a higher quality product. WARNING: If you are copying a tintype with a curled edge, watch that it doesn't scratch the glass on your scanner. You can photograph with a digital camera. I've no experience with this but was told by one person that the method wasn't recommended unless you are only interested in viewing the image onscreen. The digital camera will not give the high resolution you can get from scanning. If you have a very large document, try a commercial copying firm. Call around. Places that do blueprints usually have extra large area copies. Once you have made copes, store them properly. One other site that has information on scanning was: http://www.scantips.com/ ******** Books The scantips site listed above also lists a book for sale that might be of use. I could not find the book anyplace other than that particular site but it may be available at local bookstores. Several other books that looked interesting were: "Dating Old Photographs 1840-1929, a Family Chronicle Publication" which gives history and examples of all photo types and sell (per the site) for $12. The site listed is: http://www.familychronicle.com/daphoto.htm "Uncovering Your Ancestry Through Family Photographs" by Maureen Taylor, published by Betterway Books, Cincinnati, OH, 2000. Sells for around $19. "An Ounce of Preservation" by Craig Tuttle. Sells for around $12 or $15. There are a lot of others out there; some quite expensive. Finally, another good suggestion was to surf the web looking for information. ASK JEEVES and GOOGLE were recommended. Again, I thank all of you who responded and hope this is as useful to you as it was to me. Gloria

I need a copy of the marriage record of Washington Ruperd(Rupert on license) and Diana Elliott. Marriage record book 6 page 241-719 married on 6 Jan 1848 by Henry Jackman J.P. Jan 5 John Criss Sworn and Affidavit Filed. Can you tell me how I can get a copy of this? Thanks, Jennifer

Marilyn, I'm not sure that there are records specific to Irondale. But I can tell you that in 1871 Irondale was a company town, mostly owned by Morgan and Hunter which produced "pig iron, puddling, and rails". The 1871 Atlas of Jeff. Co. shows maybe 10% to be owned privately, the rest by the company. No Robinsons are listed for the town, or the township it's in, Saline Twp., but the atlas only lists landowners. You might try writing Sandy Day at the Schiappa Branch Library in Steubenville. You can find out more at http://www.rootsweb.com/~ohjefogs/collection.htm Good luck! Karen > I have just joined this list because I found out that my ROBINSONs > (Margaret b.abt 1870, Emma b.1875, Elizabeth b.1877, and Oron Newton > b.1880) were born in Irondale, Jefferson Co. They were the children of > James ROBINSON(b.Nov. 1845) and Sarah (b. Sep. 1846). They later moved > to Beaver Co. PA. Does anyone know anything about this family? Where > would records for Irondale be found? > -- > Marilyn Mills Hesse [email protected] Windsor, CT, USA

Bobbie, The only Johnston that I have in my database is Robert Johnston, second husband of Margaret McCance (Leech). MARGARET MCCANCE, b. Abt. 1784; m. (1) THOMAS LEECH; m. (2) ROBERT JOHNSTON, October 26, 1809, Jefferson Co. Ohio. More About ROBERT JOHNSTON: Fact 10: Married by John Rea Hope this helps, Pam ----- Original Message ----- From: Bobbie Reihsen <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 3:29 PM Subject: JOHNSTON in Stuebenville, Jefferson Co., OH > > Am forwarding this message in case someone has a connection. I don't know > if there is one or not. I am not sure if Nancy was married in Jefferson Co. > OH or after the move to Washington Co. OH or exactly where her marriage to > John Edward Johnson. I think I have his name right, am not at home so do > not have my papers in front of me. Have lots to keep track of. Please let > me know what you think. Thanks, Bobbie > > >From: Ken Foster <[email protected]> > >To: [email protected] > >Subject: JONES/JOHNSTON in Stuebenville, Jefferson Co., OH > >Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:57:54 -0500 > > > >I have an Jane Foster who married Alexander Johnston......any relation to > >your family? > >Daughters Hettie & Rachel Johnston. > > > >Ken Foster > >[email protected] > > > > > >============================== > >Search more than 150 million free records at RootsWeb! > >http://searches.rootsweb.com/ > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > ============================== > Search over 900 million names at Ancestry.com! > http://www.ancestry.com/rd/rwlist1.asp >

Am forwarding this message in case someone has a connection. I don't know if there is one or not. I am not sure if Nancy was married in Jefferson Co. OH or after the move to Washington Co. OH or exactly where her marriage to John Edward Johnson. I think I have his name right, am not at home so do not have my papers in front of me. Have lots to keep track of. Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Bobbie >From: Ken Foster <[email protected]> >To: [email protected] >Subject: JONES/JOHNSTON in Stuebenville, Jefferson Co., OH >Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:57:54 -0500 > >I have an Jane Foster who married Alexander Johnston......any relation to >your family? >Daughters Hettie & Rachel Johnston. > >Ken Foster >[email protected] > > >============================== >Search more than 150 million free records at RootsWeb! >http://searches.rootsweb.com/ > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

Hi folks, I am in need of more help, this time a death record or cemetery look-up for Ann / Catherine MCDANIEL d/o/d bef. 1832 aft. 1828 or Leafy / Catherine MCDANIEL d/o/d bef. 1832 aft. 1828 or Henrietta / Catherine MCDANIEL d/o/d bef. 1832 aft. 1828 I am trying to find my 2nd gtgrandfathers mother. Horatio MCDANIEL was b. 12/23/1828 and he had a sister Ann MCDANIEL that was b. 11/1/1825 d/o/d 1/28/1854, her headstone said she was the daughter of George and Catherine. George's 2nd m. was to Mary DUNLAP in 1832. In a response to my marriage look-up request the following marriages is a possiblity, but I'm sure how I can prove which one it is. > McDaniel, George Sp : Grant, Leafy > M : Dec 21, 1819 > County : Washington Co. > Sex : M > McDaniel, George Sp : Lovet, Ann > M : Sep 28, 1820 > County : Muskingum Co. > Sex : M > McDaniel, George Sp : Milbourn, Henrietta > M : Dec 25, 1823 > County : Fayette Co. ANY HELP/ADVICE WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU. Ruth

I have just joined this list because I found out that my ROBINSONs (Margaret b.abt 1870, Emma b.1875, Elizabeth b.1877, and Oron Newton b.1880) were born in Irondale, Jefferson Co. They were the children of James ROBINSON(b.Nov. 1845) and Sarah (b. Sep. 1846). They later moved to Beaver Co. PA. Does anyone know anything about this family? Where would records for Irondale be found? -- Marilyn Mills Hesse [email protected] Windsor, CT, USA Researching: BRENNER - Bavaria,Germany>Louisville,KY CRAIGHEAD- Beaver Co.PA DENNIS - New Jersey>Bucks Co.PA>Crawford Co.PA GLASS - Germany>Louisville,KY HAMILTON - Killybegs,Co.Donegal,Ireland>Liverpool,UK>Crawford Co.PA HESSE - Westphalia, Germany>Louisville,KY LYNCH - Co. Derry and Co.Antrim,Ireland>Beaver Falls, PA McQUISTON -Co.Antrim,Ireland>South Carolina>Crawford Co.& Mercer Co.,PA MILLS - Co.Tyrone,Ireland>Mercer Co.PA>Crawford Co.PA MOODY - Co.Derry and Co.Antrim,Ireland>Beaver Falls,PA MOORE/MOON-Co.Tyrone,Ireland>Mercer Co.PA>Crawford Co.PA MUELLER - Munsterburg,Silesia>Magdeburg,Germany>Louisville,KY ROBINSON - Jefferson Co. OH>Beaver Co.PA WILLIAMS - Connecticut>New Jersey>Crawford Co.PA

In a message dated 02/27/2001 8:39:02 PM Pacific Standard Time, [email protected] writes: > Hi folks, > I am needing a marriage look-up for George MCDANIEL and Catherine > UNKNOWN, married abt. 1824 in Jefferson and/or Carroll Co. in OH. > I'd appreciate any help I can get. Thank you, Ruth > Hi Ruth - I checked all the GEORGE MCDANIEL's listed in my resource. None married to a CATHERINE- but perhaps her given name was something else (Catherine as a middle)? Just in case, I have listed all below. Good luck! Peggy Marriage Index: Ohio, 1789-1850 McDaniel, George Sp : Grant, Leafy M : Dec 21, 1819 County : Washington Co. Sex : M McDaniel, George Sp : Lovet, Ann M : Sep 28, 1820 County : Muskingum Co. Sex : M McDaniel, George Sp : Milbourn, Henrietta M : Dec 25, 1823 County : Fayette Co. Sex : M McDaniel, George Sp : Butler, Ruhama M : Nov 3, 1831 County : Coshocton Co. Sex : M McDaniel, George Sp : Dunlap, Mary M : Mar 15, 1832 County : Harrison Co. Sex : M McDaniel, George Sp : McDaniel, Anne M : May 11, 1840 County : Meigs Co. Sex : M McDaniel, George Sp : Shaner, Harriet M : Dec 23, 1841 County : Athens Co. Sex : M McDaniel, George W. Sp : Suite, Mary M : Oct 20, 1840 County : Champaign Co. Sex : M McDaniel, George W. Sp : Trephar, Mary Ann M : Jan 1, 1848 County : Greene Co. Sex : M

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I have an Jane Foster who married Alexander Johnston......any relation to your family? Daughters Hettie & Rachel Johnston. Ken Foster [email protected]

Hi folks, I am needing a marriage look-up for George MCDANIEL and Catherine UNKNOWN, married abt. 1824 in Jefferson and/or Carroll Co. in OH. I'd appreciate any help I can get. Thank you, Ruth

Here is an underreported news release on LDS's Records of freed slaves "The Mormon Church published records Monday from the post-Civil War Freedman's Bank for newly freed slaves, making ancestral records available for as many as 12 million black Americans. The records have been available for years through the National Archives but not in organized form. The church, formally the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, spent 11 years, with help from volunteer Utah state inmates, extracting and linking the 480,000 names contained in the records. "These records can provide clues for an estimated 8 to 10 million African-American descendants living today who might want to research their family histories," said Elder L. Lionel Kendrick, a church official. The Freedman's Bank Records CD can be purchased for $6.50 over the Internet at Familysearch.org, or by calling church distribution centers at (800) 537-5971 and asking for item 50120. You can read the entire report at: http://www.salonmag.com/people/wire/2001/02/27/slaves/index.html

Can someone tell me how to check on which rootswebs lists I am subscribed to. I've been on vacation and am not sure I resubscribed to some. I sure would appreciate this information. Thanks, Romayne