Thanks Lee ! To keep it wet, can you put plastic over it, or pour it on a day when you know it's gonna rain? Or is that bad? Kathleen ----- Original Message ----- From: Lee Lamar <leelamar@swbell.net> To: <MO-CEMETERIES-L@rootsweb.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 2:34 PM Subject: Re: [MO-CEM] Making gravemarkers? > To all who might contemplate making some markers from portland cement > concrete. > > As one who had a career with the Portland Cement Association trying to > teach engineers, architects, contractors, concrete finishers etc. how to > properly make strong durable wear resistant and water tight concrete, I > would offer some fundamentals principles. > > 1. The secret to the above mentioned type of concrete is to limit the > amount of water to not more than six gallons of water per 94 pound sack > of concrete, including any water that might already be on the surface of > the sand and gravel or crushed rock, preferably not more than five. > This is the most fundamental principal and is the most often ignored, > even by long time concrete finishers. Unfortunately, it is much easier > to get the mixture in the forms and around any reinforcing steel it > water is added. We all seem to be lazy. > > 2. Under most normal uses for concrete, at least six sacks of portland > cement is required to make a cubic yard of good quality concrete mix. > Some people will fall for a little cheaper grade of concrete, but it is > a poor practice, when the difference is small compared to the better > quality and longer life. > > 3. Once any water is added to the portland cement, keep it in the mix > as long as practical, at least six days. Keep the moisture in the > mixture will enable the hydration process to take place and all the most > expensive ingredient, the portland cement, will be utilized. This > process is called curing the concrete. Unfortunately, too many concrete > workers think concrete curing consists of letting the concrete dry out > before it is used. The result is the concrete is weaker, because the > water is allowed to leave the concrete mixture before it has had > sufficient time to properly hydrate. Thus, always keep any exposed top > or edge of the concrete mixture covered with wet burlap or other type of > cloth for at least six days. > > 4. A good concrete mixture should also have about six per cent > entrained air. An ingredient generally comes added to the grey powder, > which when placed in a mixer and mixed with the sand and stone will > create this entrained air in the mixture. When properly cured this > entrained air provide little pressure release vessels within the cured > concrete to releave the pressure when the concrete freezes. > Unfortunately, if the concrete is mixed by hand with a hoe it does not > always create the little bubbles. > > 5. Thus, remember: > > Six sacks of portland cement per cubic yard of concrete > Six per cent entrained air > No more than six gallons of water per sack of portland cement > At least six days wet curing > > There is one additional item to keep in mind. Do not over finish the > surface of the concrete. The least action performed on the surface to > get a good smooth surface the better. More action simply overworks the > surface and it is less durable than it should be. > > Good Luck. Lee L. > > > > 2. Once the mixture is prepared > > Kathleen O'Brien-Blair wrote: > > > > This is from a private e-mail I recevied from a family member and it got me thinking. > > > > Please let me know what you think of these ideas...Are they practical? > > > > Kathleen > > > > >What am curious about is a good way to make a small marker out of cement > > >and apply the lettering so that we can at least pay our respects in that way > > >(with permission)? Any sources for methods and plans to do that? > > > > Gee! that's a good question I'm not sure I have the answer for.....Hmmm.... > > > > Well, I'd say that a starting point in restoration would be to list who is buried there on a plaque erected at the cemetry. Then one by one make markers and set them on the appropriate graves. > > > > I don't see why the same kits you can get to make garden stepping stones wouldn't work for making markers as well. > > > > For a do-it-yourselfer - one way might be to pour the markers in-place with cement using 2 X 4's to construct the frame for the marker. You know, dig out the area maybe 6", put down wet sand and level, then set the frame and pour the concrete. Then, when it's still wet but firm enough things ownt sink down into it, use small decorative rocks to press into the surface of the marker spelling out the name and years. Or, I think you can get house letters and numbers in a kind of "rock-crete" sorta stuff at home improvement stores and craft shops. When the concrete is still wet but firm enough they won't sink in, press them into place on the marker. > > > > In any case, if you're gonna use cement, I'd finish it off with a sealer preserver - otherwise it'll turn to dust faster than regular rock. There is also an outdoor poly-type spray on stuff you can get in craft stores that makes the surface look like rock. > > > > Alternatively, you might find some pretty cheap stones in the bone-yard of local monument companies - stuff they've cracked or broken. You can also find this at tile and stone suppliers - you know - the guys who sell that expensive stuff for marble and granite countertops and stuff? Every so often, somebody drop something and it breaks. You might pick it up cheap and use a Dremel with a diamond bit to carve in the names and dates. > > > > ==== MO-CEMETERIES Mailing List ==== > > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Missouri Cemetery list, use > > MO-CEMETERIES-l-request@rootsweb.com or MO-CEMETERIES-d-request@rootsweb.com if > > you are on the Digest list. > > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > Vist the Mo-Cemeteries Volunteer and Cemetery List http://www.rootsweb.com/~mocemete/mocem.htm > > > > ============================== > > Create a FREE family website at MyFamily.com! > > http://www.myfamily.com/banner.asp?ID=RWLIST2 > > > ==== MO-CEMETERIES Mailing List ==== > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Missouri Cemetery list, use > MO-CEMETERIES-l-request@rootsweb.com or MO-CEMETERIES-d-request@rootsweb.com if > you are on the Digest list. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > Vist the Mo-Cemeteries Volunteer and Cemetery List http://www.rootsweb.com/~mocemete/mocem.htm > > ============================== > Create a FREE family website at MyFamily.com! > http://www.myfamily.com/banner.asp?ID=RWLIST2 >

Kathleen, It is best not to let it rain on the fresh concrete. Plastic tends to discolor the concrete because of what is called the "greenhouse effect". Wet burlap or similar wet cloths are best and most practical, although there are other ways to cure it. Lee L. Kathleen O'Brien-Blair wrote: > > Thanks Lee ! > > To keep it wet, can you put plastic over it, or pour it on a day when you > know it's gonna rain? Or is that bad? > > Kathleen > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Lee Lamar <leelamar@swbell.net> > To: <MO-CEMETERIES-L@rootsweb.com> > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 2:34 PM > Subject: Re: [MO-CEM] Making gravemarkers? > > > To all who might contemplate making some markers from portland cement > > concrete. > > > > As one who had a career with the Portland Cement Association trying to > > teach engineers, architects, contractors, concrete finishers etc. how to > > properly make strong durable wear resistant and water tight concrete, I > > would offer some fundamentals principles. > > > > 1. The secret to the above mentioned type of concrete is to limit the > > amount of water to not more than six gallons of water per 94 pound sack > > of concrete, including any water that might already be on the surface of > > the sand and gravel or crushed rock, preferably not more than five. > > This is the most fundamental principal and is the most often ignored, > > even by long time concrete finishers. Unfortunately, it is much easier > > to get the mixture in the forms and around any reinforcing steel it > > water is added. We all seem to be lazy. > > > > 2. Under most normal uses for concrete, at least six sacks of portland > > cement is required to make a cubic yard of good quality concrete mix. > > Some people will fall for a little cheaper grade of concrete, but it is > > a poor practice, when the difference is small compared to the better > > quality and longer life. > > > > 3. Once any water is added to the portland cement, keep it in the mix > > as long as practical, at least six days. Keep the moisture in the > > mixture will enable the hydration process to take place and all the most > > expensive ingredient, the portland cement, will be utilized. This > > process is called curing the concrete. Unfortunately, too many concrete > > workers think concrete curing consists of letting the concrete dry out > > before it is used. The result is the concrete is weaker, because the > > water is allowed to leave the concrete mixture before it has had > > sufficient time to properly hydrate. Thus, always keep any exposed top > > or edge of the concrete mixture covered with wet burlap or other type of > > cloth for at least six days. > > > > 4. A good concrete mixture should also have about six per cent > > entrained air. An ingredient generally comes added to the grey powder, > > which when placed in a mixer and mixed with the sand and stone will > > create this entrained air in the mixture. When properly cured this > > entrained air provide little pressure release vessels within the cured > > concrete to releave the pressure when the concrete freezes. > > Unfortunately, if the concrete is mixed by hand with a hoe it does not > > always create the little bubbles. > > > > 5. Thus, remember: > > > > Six sacks of portland cement per cubic yard of concrete > > Six per cent entrained air > > No more than six gallons of water per sack of portland cement > > At least six days wet curing > > > > There is one additional item to keep in mind. Do not over finish the > > surface of the concrete. The least action performed on the surface to > > get a good smooth surface the better. More action simply overworks the > > surface and it is less durable than it should be. > > > > Good Luck. Lee L. > > > > > > > > 2. Once the mixture is prepared > > > > Kathleen O'Brien-Blair wrote: > > > > > > This is from a private e-mail I recevied from a family member and it got > me thinking. > > > > > > Please let me know what you think of these ideas...Are they practical? > > > > > > Kathleen > > > > > > >What am curious about is a good way to make a small marker out of > cement > > > >and apply the lettering so that we can at least pay our respects in > that way > > > >(with permission)? Any sources for methods and plans to do that? > > > > > > Gee! that's a good question I'm not sure I have the answer > for.....Hmmm.... > > > > > > Well, I'd say that a starting point in restoration would be to list who > is buried there on a plaque erected at the cemetry. Then one by one make > markers and set them on the appropriate graves. > > > > > > I don't see why the same kits you can get to make garden stepping stones > wouldn't work for making markers as well. > > > > > > For a do-it-yourselfer - one way might be to pour the markers in-place > with cement using 2 X 4's to construct the frame for the marker. You know, > dig out the area maybe 6", put down wet sand and level, then set the frame > and pour the concrete. Then, when it's still wet but firm enough things ownt > sink down into it, use small decorative rocks to press into the surface of > the marker spelling out the name and years. Or, I think you can get house > letters and numbers in a kind of "rock-crete" sorta stuff at home > improvement stores and craft shops. When the concrete is still wet but firm > enough they won't sink in, press them into place on the marker. > > > > > > In any case, if you're gonna use cement, I'd finish it off with a sealer > preserver - otherwise it'll turn to dust faster than regular rock. There is > also an outdoor poly-type spray on stuff you can get in craft stores that > makes the surface look like rock. > > > > > > Alternatively, you might find some pretty cheap stones in the bone-yard > of local monument companies - stuff they've cracked or broken. You can also > find this at tile and stone suppliers - you know - the guys who sell that > expensive stuff for marble and granite countertops and stuff? Every so > often, somebody drop something and it breaks. You might pick it up cheap and > use a Dremel with a diamond bit to carve in the names and dates. > > > > > > ==== MO-CEMETERIES Mailing List ==== > > > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Missouri Cemetery > list, use > > > MO-CEMETERIES-l-request@rootsweb.com or > MO-CEMETERIES-d-request@rootsweb.com if > > > you are on the Digest list. > > > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > > Vist the Mo-Cemeteries Volunteer and Cemetery List > http://www.rootsweb.com/~mocemete/mocem.htm > > > > > > ============================== > > > Create a FREE family website at MyFamily.com! > > > http://www.myfamily.com/banner.asp?ID=RWLIST2 > > > > > > ==== MO-CEMETERIES Mailing List ==== > > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Missouri Cemetery > list, use > > MO-CEMETERIES-l-request@rootsweb.com or > MO-CEMETERIES-d-request@rootsweb.com if > > you are on the Digest list. > > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > Vist the Mo-Cemeteries Volunteer and Cemetery List > http://www.rootsweb.com/~mocemete/mocem.htm > > > > ============================== > > Create a FREE family website at MyFamily.com! > > http://www.myfamily.com/banner.asp?ID=RWLIST2 > > > > ==== MO-CEMETERIES Mailing List ==== > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Missouri Cemetery list, use > MO-CEMETERIES-l-request@rootsweb.com or MO-CEMETERIES-d-request@rootsweb.com if > you are on the Digest list. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > Vist the Mo-Cemeteries Volunteer and Cemetery List http://www.rootsweb.com/~mocemete/mocem.htm > > ============================== > Create a FREE family website at MyFamily.com! > http://www.myfamily.com/banner.asp?ID=RWLIST2

KATHLEEN: Here in Portland, OR. where it rains a lot and if it is not raining it is going to soon, they build a tent over the fresh concrete with clear plastic. Robin Kathleen O'Brien-Blair wrote: > Thanks Lee ! > > To keep it wet, can you put plastic over it, or pour it on a day when you > know it's gonna rain? Or is that bad? > > Kathleen > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Lee Lamar <leelamar@swbell.net> > To: <MO-CEMETERIES-L@rootsweb.com> > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 2:34 PM > Subject: Re: [MO-CEM] Making gravemarkers? > > > To all who might contemplate making some markers from portland cement > > concrete. > > > > As one who had a career with the Portland Cement Association trying to > > teach engineers, architects, contractors, concrete finishers etc. how to > > properly make strong durable wear resistant and water tight concrete, I > > would offer some fundamentals principles. > > > > 1. The secret to the above mentioned type of concrete is to limit the > > amount of water to not more than six gallons of water per 94 pound sack > > of concrete, including any water that might already be on the surface of > > the sand and gravel or crushed rock, preferably not more than five. > > This is the most fundamental principal and is the most often ignored, > > even by long time concrete finishers. Unfortunately, it is much easier > > to get the mixture in the forms and around any reinforcing steel it > > water is added. We all seem to be lazy. > > > > 2. Under most normal uses for concrete, at least six sacks of portland > > cement is required to make a cubic yard of good quality concrete mix. > > Some people will fall for a little cheaper grade of concrete, but it is > > a poor practice, when the difference is small compared to the better > > quality and longer life. > > > > 3. Once any water is added to the portland cement, keep it in the mix > > as long as practical, at least six days. Keep the moisture in the > > mixture will enable the hydration process to take place and all the most > > expensive ingredient, the portland cement, will be utilized. This > > process is called curing the concrete. Unfortunately, too many concrete > > workers think concrete curing consists of letting the concrete dry out > > before it is used. The result is the concrete is weaker, because the > > water is allowed to leave the concrete mixture before it has had > > sufficient time to properly hydrate. Thus, always keep any exposed top > > or edge of the concrete mixture covered with wet burlap or other type of > > cloth for at least six days. > > > > 4. A good concrete mixture should also have about six per cent > > entrained air. An ingredient generally comes added to the grey powder, > > which when placed in a mixer and mixed with the sand and stone will > > create this entrained air in the mixture. When properly cured this > > entrained air provide little pressure release vessels within the cured > > concrete to releave the pressure when the concrete freezes. > > Unfortunately, if the concrete is mixed by hand with a hoe it does not > > always create the little bubbles. > > > > 5. Thus, remember: > > > > Six sacks of portland cement per cubic yard of concrete > > Six per cent entrained air > > No more than six gallons of water per sack of portland cement > > At least six days wet curing > > > > There is one additional item to keep in mind. Do not over finish the > > surface of the concrete. The least action performed on the surface to > > get a good smooth surface the better. More action simply overworks the > > surface and it is less durable than it should be. > > > > Good Luck. Lee L. > > > > > > > > 2. Once the mixture is prepared > > > > Kathleen O'Brien-Blair wrote: > > > > > > This is from a private e-mail I recevied from a family member and it got > me thinking. > > > > > > Please let me know what you think of these ideas...Are they practical? > > > > > > Kathleen > > > > > > >What am curious about is a good way to make a small marker out of > cement > > > >and apply the lettering so that we can at least pay our respects in > that way > > > >(with permission)? Any sources for methods and plans to do that? > > > > > > Gee! that's a good question I'm not sure I have the answer > for.....Hmmm.... > > > > > > Well, I'd say that a starting point in restoration would be to list who > is buried there on a plaque erected at the cemetry. Then one by one make > markers and set them on the appropriate graves. > > > > > > I don't see why the same kits you can get to make garden stepping stones > wouldn't work for making markers as well. > > > > > > For a do-it-yourselfer - one way might be to pour the markers in-place > with cement using 2 X 4's to construct the frame for the marker. You know, > dig out the area maybe 6", put down wet sand and level, then set the frame > and pour the concrete. Then, when it's still wet but firm enough things ownt > sink down into it, use small decorative rocks to press into the surface of > the marker spelling out the name and years. Or, I think you can get house > letters and numbers in a kind of "rock-crete" sorta stuff at home > improvement stores and craft shops. When the concrete is still wet but firm > enough they won't sink in, press them into place on the marker. > > > > > > In any case, if you're gonna use cement, I'd finish it off with a sealer > preserver - otherwise it'll turn to dust faster than regular rock. There is > also an outdoor poly-type spray on stuff you can get in craft stores that > makes the surface look like rock. > > > > > > Alternatively, you might find some pretty cheap stones in the bone-yard > of local monument companies - stuff they've cracked or broken. You can also > find this at tile and stone suppliers - you know - the guys who sell that > expensive stuff for marble and granite countertops and stuff? Every so > often, somebody drop something and it breaks. You might pick it up cheap and > use a Dremel with a diamond bit to carve in the names and dates. > > > > > > ==== MO-CEMETERIES Mailing List ==== > > > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Missouri Cemetery > list, use > > > MO-CEMETERIES-l-request@rootsweb.com or > MO-CEMETERIES-d-request@rootsweb.com if > > > you are on the Digest list. > > > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > > Vist the Mo-Cemeteries Volunteer and Cemetery List > http://www.rootsweb.com/~mocemete/mocem.htm > > > > > > ============================== > > > Create a FREE family website at MyFamily.com! > > > http://www.myfamily.com/banner.asp?ID=RWLIST2 > > > > > > ==== MO-CEMETERIES Mailing List ==== > > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Missouri Cemetery > list, use > > MO-CEMETERIES-l-request@rootsweb.com or > MO-CEMETERIES-d-request@rootsweb.com if > > you are on the Digest list. > > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > > Vist the Mo-Cemeteries Volunteer and Cemetery List > http://www.rootsweb.com/~mocemete/mocem.htm > > > > ============================== > > Create a FREE family website at MyFamily.com! > > http://www.myfamily.com/banner.asp?ID=RWLIST2 > > > > ==== MO-CEMETERIES Mailing List ==== > If you wish to subscribe to or unsubscribe from the Missouri Cemetery list, use > MO-CEMETERIES-l-request@rootsweb.com or MO-CEMETERIES-d-request@rootsweb.com if > you are on the Digest list. > To learn more about my world visit http://dwp.bigplanet.com/kburnett > Vist the Mo-Cemeteries Volunteer and Cemetery List http://www.rootsweb.com/~mocemete/mocem.htm > > ============================== > Create a FREE family website at MyFamily.com! > http://www.myfamily.com/banner.asp?ID=RWLIST2