TIP #505 - FASHIONS REFLECTED SOCIETY 1920-1930 What happened from 1920 to 1930 that made an impact on the types of clothing worn by American citizens? America and Kentuckians as well went through a tremendous change during this time frame. Times were changing, America was getting older and bolder and the influence was felt everywhere. One of the major events was the era of Prohibition. This led to speak-easy's - the introduction of a new type of music called jazz which led to radio and live performances. This was an era of experimentation in culture which reached millions as the sighs were heard that the great war was over, things were going to be ok. People tried to get their minds off the horrors of World War I and the noticeable absence of young men ... killed during the war. Those teenagers and young adults who had survived this terrible era felt energized - a total freedom finally. The jazz age rushed in, influenced it is said by the African American tempos. New heroes and heroines were thrown on the front pages of the newspapers and replaced in the minds of many the military heroes of the past such as Washington and Lincoln. Movie stars now made the news and their clothing, mannerisms and life styles led the "awakening". Rudolf Valentino was making many a young ladies heart swoon; women emulated the looks of Clara Bow. After working forever it seemed in the production lines, women were glad to start looking feminine again! Entire new industries were born of this time, geared to the fair lady who suddenly was quite interested in how she looked. Cosmetics flourished, hairstyles went wild and glamour was sought. Did the average housewife in Kentucky feel a part of this new daring age? Perhaps those in the larger cities it was more obvious where the ladies had more leisure time seemingly, but I would imagine that the farm women also dreamed of being beautiful as they glanced through the local newspapers. The mercantiles, now called department stores and clothing stores began carrying more fashionable up-to-date dresses and suits along with the farm clothing. For the women who could afford them, magazines for women emerged; the best known as Vogue, The Queen and Harper's Bazaar. Vogue had been around since 1892 but didn't come into it's own until the 20's. What woman wouldn't be tempted to day dream through the pages of these classy magazines if they were available - even while whipping up supper for her husband and trying to corral a large family of children who were most content in running around barefoot? What did the modern woman of the 1920's and 1930's wear? Suits for women were all the rage; the skirts were long and full and had belts at the waist of the jacket. Waists were not fitted, but loose for comfort. The bodices of dresses and suits were worn with a baggy look. As the years progressed, the waistline dropped lower, approximately between the natural waist and the hips. In 1924, the waist had dropped totally to the hips. By 1925 a new term was heard in the fashion world - the "shift". It had no waistline at all. And by the late 1920's, the dresses had straight bodices and collars. There were often tucks at the bottom of the bodice and pleated skirts with the hems about an inch below the knee. By 1928, whereas the waist had dropped before, now the hems started rising. Buttons were important on women's clothing. The zipper wasn't used until later in this decade (it used to be known as a locker.) Flapper-style dresses were all the rage and they close fitting, fastened with hooks and eyes, buttons and snaps. Most of the dresses, suits and skirts were cotton and wool. Silk was still too expensive even though, in 1891, an artificial silk was made in France. Production in America began in 1910; and by 1924 this material was called rayon. Since silk was so expensive and American women had discovered hosiery, many were made of rayon instead. Women were truly adventurous during this time frame and were spreading their wings. Why they could vote, smoke, wear make-up and even the vocabularies of many changed to including those words usually reserved for the menfolk. Something of the innocence of womanhood was being lost along the way as women took the first steps toward more independence. The skirts kept getting shorter as all of a sudden it was the "in" thing to show off one's knees. Some younger women rolled down their stockings and painted rouge on their kneecaps to emphasize what they considered their beautiful legs. Shoes had to change too, foot attire was needed to enable dancing the wild dances of the era. The Charleston could send a shoe flying across the room! Thus, low heels and closed toes were most accepted. Some chose a cutaway shoe with t-straps which might be highly decorated. Colors were in for shoes, black was out. All right, what about the men? Did they keep their senses during this era of flamboyancy? Very little is said of men's fashions during this time; they must have kept their heads! Two-toned spectators were popular which fit in well with the ever-popular knickers. Men of this area could be classified as "conservative." Their trousers were still wide - up to 24 inches wide during this time. For the more sporty look, knickers and "plus fours" were acceptable; buckled 4 inches below the knee. Summer wear for the men included the lighter colors with the colors darkening for the fall and winter months. Animal fur was used to decorate and keep the gentleman warm in winter. And yes, if you note some of your ancestor's photographs during this time, another fashion among the younger men came into vogue. Have you seen a picture of your great-grandfather wearing a raccoon coat? I guess they deserved a little "wildness" in their wardrobe once in awhile as they sat back and watched the girls and women go "beserk" (well, it must have appeared so!) in their wardrobes, hairstyles and makeup. Next week, I'll end up this series with 1930-1940. I choose to quit here as fashions since that time are more easily studied - plus - we're getting too close to my decade and I just can't let anyone see what our generation wore! (c) Copyright 2 Sept 2004, Sandra K. Gorin Colonel Sandi Gorin SCKY Links: http://www.public.asu.edu/~moore/Gorin.html Sandi's Puzzlers: http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~gensoup/gorin/puz.html Gorin Publishing: http://ggpublishing.tripod.com/