SNIPPET: In tthe July-Aug 2004 issue of Dublin's "Ireland of the Welcomes" two subscribers shared their experiences on recent visits to the Emerald Isle: Lois OBERBERGER, Somerset, NJ, wrote: "Firstly, I want to compliment you on such a wonderfully written and illustrated publication. I am in my fifth year of subscribing and look forward to each issue in the hopes of seeing one place or another that I hsve visited or wish to visit in the future. I am never disappointed. I've gained a much better knowledge of your country by reading your informative articles, and I especially enjoy reading 'Byways Rather than Highways'.... Although I am not of Irish descent, my children like to tell their friends that their mother 'thinks' she's Irish. Last summer, I made my much-awaited second trip. We revisited some of the sights -- the Cliffs of Moher, Dublin, Blarney Castle, and Kinsale. However, this time we also travelled to Northern Ireland, took an extremely fascinating walking tour of Derry with a most knowledgeable guide, roamed the spectacular Giant's Causeway, and visited the Belleek Factory, in Co. Fermanagh. Several years ago, I had seen photographs of the Causeway and always wanted to see it myself ... It was so much more awesome to actually be there. The basalt columns are simply indescribable. As with the last time, we were again a small, compatible group of 20+ people of varying ages. We enjoyed the daily pub stops with their lively entertainment, the locals were so friendly and helpful, always ready with a charming story ..... I must mention our excellent tour guide, Tadhg MURPHY, who kept us so thoroughly informed with interesting tidbits about each region as we travelled about and who sang Irish songs, recited poetry and told witty (sometimes corny) jokes about life in Ireland. His humour and insight will never be forgotten. While heading north, we stopped near Castlebar at Ballintubber Abbey where we were told that Pierce BROSNAN had recently been married. That was a very impressive stop due to a most vibrant and energetic local guide who told such enchanting stories about he church site. We also visited W. B. YEAT's graveside at Drumcliffe, toured the Glenveagh National Park including its stately Castle and gardens, visited Monasterboice to see its Celtic high crosses, stopped at the Bru na Boinne Interpretive Centre in the Boyne Valley to learn more about Newgrange, and also made a stop at the Hill of Tara. After a wonderful two-day stop in Dublin where we visited, among other sights, the very interesting Kilmainham Gaol, we continued on our journey south to Kilkenny Castle for a guided tour and, yet further south, viewed the monument to Michael COLLINS where he was ambushed and killed. We circled around the Dingle Peninsula, made a few stops, including one at the Gallarus Oratory (a well-preserved early Christian church) and looked unsuccessfully, for the much talked about dolphin, Fungie. I have only touched on the highlights of this trip and am beginning to see that it will take quite a few more trips before I can say that I've seen it all. Every turn in the road brings an even more beautiful photographic opportunity into view. I am very proud of all that we accomplished in only eleven days. Please continue to focus on the wide range of subjects and places so that you will continually whet my appetite ... for other trips." Pam COLLINS, Cincinnati, OH, shared a frightening incident softened by the kindness of strangers on an otherwise enjoyable visit to Ireland three years ago. "My husband, Paul COLLINS, is of Irish descent; his family left Carnmore in Co. Galway around 1852. After subscribing to your magazine for many years, I decided to write about our trip back in September 2001. The disastrous events that month made us reconsider going, but since we had already paid for the entire trip, we continued, and what an adventure it turned out to be! We had flown into Dublin, rented a car and enjoyed Malahide, Newgrange, Trim and every othe ancient site we could find along the way. On Oct 6th, we ended up in Co. Sligo, exploring the rugged coast roads on a rainy blustery day. North of Mullaghmore, we spotted what we thought was a 'viewing point' and my husband turned in to it. Immediately, our car began to slide and spin in the mud, heading for the cliff edge. The car slowed and I jumpe! d out, screaming and begging my husband to get out too. There wasn't another soul or house in sight. With the wheels spinning, our car was still sliding towards the edge. Finally, within ten feet of the cliff, the car suddenly stopped and my husband finally got out. As we stood there, in the gale force winds, with the rain pelting down on our faces, looking at our near death experience and wondering what to do, a car pulled up out of nowhere. The driver was another tourist and had seen our car heading towards the edge. He and his two friends drove us to the nearby village and we went to the Beach Hotel to ask for help. The girls at the desk were so nice, offering us tea and hot chocolate, after seeing me in tears and shaking from the ordeal. A local farmer, Garrett BARRY, graciously came to the rescue and pulled out our car from its precarious spot. That night at the hotel, I picked up a sachet of sugar for my coffee and you'll never believe what was printed on it i! n Irish -- 'Bionn siulach scealach' - the traveller has tales to tell. We certainly had!" --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.716 / Virus Database: 472 - Release Date: 7/10/2004