CORK: "And yet it is a lovely, lovely place. Its slums, that have a hot verminous smell, indescribable and unique -- walk down Millard Street of a hot summer day and you get the pure bouquet of it -- come back to the memory before everything else with a geyser-gush of nostalgia. Cork's poor are its kings. In these ambition has not sharpened the claw, and passion lives at blood-heat. The shawled women and girls (are they passing away into what they used to call, derisively, "hatty wans"?) are magnificent. Observe the coal-quay kids - often dressed in a costume, especially a Sunday costume, that I have seen nowhere else - purple stockings, fawny boots, halfway-up the calf, sometimes a bright velvet cap, golden tasselled, reflecting the half-barbaric love of colour that one used to see in the brilliance of the petticoats and shawls, and in the many half-inch-thick finger-rings and dangling earrings of the mothers roaring over the fish-crates. Note the men, in my youth, straightened by bouts in the North Cork Militia or the Munster Fusiliers, swaggering like sergeant-majors. In all of these there is the principle of life at its full." -- Excerpt, Sean O'Faolain, "An Irish Journey" (1940)