SNIPPET: The notes of enthusiastic and observant Victorian traveller in Ireland, Englishman Richard LOVETT, were published by the Religious Tract Society in 1888. His itinerary was leisurely, by steamer, train, carriage and foot, in the days before the coming of the motorcar and aeroplane. "Under the shadow of Lissoughter the road skirts the shores of Glendalough, a lovely lake, but, like Killarney, apt to suffer somewhat from the extreme claims put forth on its behalf by too enthusiastic admirers. From this point onwards the road to Clifden runs through a succession of valleys either by the side of a rippling mountain stream or along the delightful shores of Glendalough and Derryclare and Ballynahinch. Dominating the whole western half of the drive, and affording a succession of delightful mountain views, stands the cluster of 'peaks of Beola,' the word 'bin' or 'ben, 'mountain,' having been corrupted from 'pin.' Benbaun, the highest of the group, is 2,395 feet above the sea level. Clifden is a well-situated little town, standing at the head of Ardbear Bay, and shut in to the north, and east by a circle of mountains. There is not much trade carried on here, and this whole district has never recovered fully from the terrible famine experiences. But on a market day the crowd of peasants and various business transactions present much that catches the attention of a stranger. The women in blue or scarlet cloaks, the men in frieze coats and knee-breeches, the pigs and sheep, the lively actions and conversations all combine to make up a picturesque and animated scene. The best excursion from Clifden is through the Martin country to Roundstone and Urrisberg, a hill which although only 987 feet high, yet from its isolated position affords a lovely view, and presents phenomena interesting alike to the botanist and geologist. Those who follow the beaten track, after staying the night at Clifden, will proceed by car another 40 miles to Westport. This route also carries the traveller through some magnificent scenery. Soon after reaching Letterfrack, the Pass of Kylemore is entered. If a choice had to be made among the many exquisite scenes of this region, not a few would award the palm to Kylemore." ....