SNIPPET: Victorian traveller Richard LOVETT kept notes on his extended trip to Ireland and they were published in 1888 by the Religious Tract Society. "Not far from Cong is the Plain of Moytura, where one of those famous battles -- half-historic, half-mythic -- lasting three days, took place in the dawn of Irish history between the Firbolgs and the Tuatha de Danaan. Those who wish to get some accurate notion of what really took place on that occasion cannot do better than consult Sir. W. WILDE's "Lough Corrib," where they will find the history of the great struggle minutely traced. Lough Mask is about nine miles long and four wide, in a very beautiful part of the country, abounding in traces of ruined castles and churches. The river connecting the two lakes runs partly underground.... one part of this subterranean channel is easily accessible and widens out to what is known as the 'Pigeon Hole.' The lively Celtic imagination, which has produced all over Ireland such a rich crop of fairy lore and local legends, has enriched the stream with a brace of holy white trout, which it would be impious in the extreme to catch. And now, turning our course westwards, one of the most picturesque regions of Connaught lies before us. It is the fashion to rush this district by aid of tourist cars. It is hardly needful to say that a more leisurely progress, even if it leads to the expense of private cars, will soon repay the traveller in expenditure of time and money. The first half of the 47 miles that separate Clifden from Galway are not particularly interesting; but when Oughterard and Lough Shindilla is reached, the excursion becomes one to delight the lover of fine scenery. To the north rise the Mamturk Mountains, 2,000 feet high; then comes the valley known as Glen Inagh, at the entrance to which stands the huge sentinel, Lissoughter, 1,314 feet high. From the summit of this hill a superb view is obtained over Glen Inagh, Lough Inagh and the wild mountain road to the north-west leading to Kylemore. The chief feature in the view, however, is the cluster of mountain peaks to the north-west, the celebrated Pins of Bunnabeola. Under the shadow of Lissoughter the road skirts the shores of Glendalough, a lovely lake, but, like Killarney, apt to suffer somewhat from the extreme claims put forth on its behalf by too enthusiastic admirers. From this point onwards the road to Clifden runs through a succession of valleys either by the side of a rippling mountain stream or along the delightful shores of Glendalough and Derryclare and Ballynahinch. Dominating the whole western half of the drive, and affording a succession of delightful mountain views, stands the cluster of 'peaks of Beola' the word 'bin' or 'ben,' 'mountain,' having been corrupted into 'pin.' Benbaun, the highest of the group , is 2,395 feet above the sea level. Clifden is a well-situated little town, standing at the head of Ardbear Bay, and shut in to the north and east by a circle of mountains. There is not much trade carried on here, and this whole district has never recovered fully from the terrible famine experiences. But on a market day the crowd of peasants and the various business transactions present much that catches the attention of a stranger. The women in blue or scarlet cloaks, the men in frieze coats and knee-breeches, the pigs and sheep, the lively actions and conversations, all combine to make up a picturesque and animated scene. The best excursion from Clifden is through the Martin country to Roundstone and Urrisberg, a hill which although only 987 feet high, yet from its isolated position affords a lovely view, and presents phenomena interesting alike to the botanist and geologist. Those who follow the beaten track, after staying the night at Clifden (Galway), will proceed by car another 40 miles to Westport (Mayo). This route also carries the traveller through some magnificent scenery."