SNIPPET: 1907 -- "It (Derry) started life with a hot temper and it has never cooled down. It has been something of a storm centre all though the ages. And it is a storm centre to-day. You cannot look upon it without a quickening of the pulses. Something of its rugged history speaks to you out of its quaint old streets. It sits there squarely astride of the Foyle under wild Inishowen, the weather-beaten citadel of the fighting North. It slopes sheerly down to the river after climbing several hills, which give some of its causeways the appearance of trying to stand on end. During the frosty weather all vehicle traffic ceases in several precipitous thoroughfares, and the popular sport of sliding begins. You may call it tobogganing or sleigh-flying or anything you please. It consists of sitting on a board or in a basket and flying down the slippery gradient at the rate of several miles per minute. There are certain arrangements made by which the sliders shall not be dashed to pieces, or across the river into Tyrconnel; but this is a matter of detail. With Bowden brakes you can ride a bicycle down one of those Derry streets; but you would require a ten horse-power engine to work your cranks in the upward direction. If you want to see Derry you must go to work on foot. Go over the bridge and climb the hills on the off side of the river when evening comes, and you will appreciate the situation. Tier over tier of lights shine out from the steamers and electric lamps along the water front right up into the sky. Shops, clubs, long lines of factories, depots and private houses - all contribute something to the illumination. They are perched at different altitudes on the slopes of the hills, some of them having their foundations many feet over the level of the tall roofs of other. Let us now turn to other phases of Derry's lumpiness. Your rambles through the streets reveal them to you. Here is a Catholic seminary; here is a Presbyterian one. Here is the Orange Hall; here is St. Columcille's Hall. Here is a street in which live militant Catholics, here alongside, radiating from a common centre, is a street in which live militant Orangemen. Here is a newspaper office from which issue periodical challenges to Croppies; here is another newspaper office from which said challenges are hurled back with interest. Here are the old 17th century walls of the city which were manned by Cromwellians in 1648. Here are the historic gates slammed by the "prentice boys" in the face of the Catholic army of James 40 years later. Here are the landmarks left by Columcille; here is the trophy statue to the soldier-pastor who made Derry one of the strongholds of Protestantism." - William Bulfin, "Rambles in Eirinn," 1907