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    1. [IGW] "Crosses in Carlow and Kildare" -- by Christopher MORIARTY
    2. Jean R.
    3. SNIPPET: In each issue of "Ireland of the Welcomes" magazine published in Dublin is a column by author and travel expert Christopher MORIARTY, in which he suggests little one-day round-trip excursions off the beaten path, describing the history behind the points of interest and exactly how to find them. Provided also are maps showing the recommended route, the distances involved, and there are charming, colorful cartoon drawings of the sites he describes. Below is an example of his writing from the May-June 2000 issue -- "Christians of many kinds settled in the valley of the River Barrow over the centuries, as they did in many parts of Ireland, and a wealth of material remains within a circle of 20 miles to the north of Carlow town, an easy hour's drive from Dublin. Carlow itself was chosen by the Anglo-Normans as a strategic point on the Barrow. They left their mark in the form of a magnificent castle on the river bank. Time, warfare and industrial development all took their toll. Seventeenth century battles reduced the proud castle to a pair of tall turrets joined by a wall. Canal builders removed the river from the castle, leaving it isolated in the town, but still looking splendid from the river bank. The castle has been given a neat little lawn to preserve it from new building development nearby. The river runs calm and deep, restrained by the curved weir which directs it towards the navigation lock on the far side. Two tall and graceful spires stand out above the town. The taller belongs to the 18th century Church of Ireland church. The smaller, a graceful octagonal structure, crowns the Roman Catholic cathedral, distinguished as the first of its kind to be built following Emancipation in 1829. At the feet of these buildings, the town is a charming network of narrow shopping streets. Seven miles north of Carlow lies Castledermot, in neighbouring Kildare, which has stood on a highway for more than a thousand years - so no approach by byway here! Diarmuid who, the annals tell us, was an anchorite and a distinguished doctor, established a monastery there before his death in A. D. 823. Some hundred years later, exceptionally talented sculptors set to work on the two wonderful crosses that still stand in the old churchyard. First, you may stop briefly at the ruins of the Franciscan friary, which stand to the left, on a bend on the road as you enter the road. A large and costly building, begun in 1302, it was rebuilt and enlarged in the 14th century and the walls and current layout testify to numerous repairs and restructurings. Only a shell remains, just enough detail to show its former glories. A signpost on the right, a little way along the road, takes you to the site of St. Diarmuid's community. Today it is a charming country churchyard, with old trees shading the graves and the 19th century parish church. Nearby, the entrance to a much older building stands in isolation, a romanesque arched doorway restored from an even more ruinous state. A small round tower is used as the belfry. Built a thousand years ago of big irregular granite boulders, as a bell tower and place of refuge, in the middle ages, it was adapted to military use by the addition of battlements round the top. The real treasures of Castledermot are its two high crosses, standing north and south of the church. The available local granite has a coarse crystalline texture which precludes fine detail by the sculptors. They met the challenge by decorating the crosses with wonderfully bold representations of various scenes from the scriptures and popular legends of the lives of the saints of the eastern church. The base of the south cross has a delightful scene of Noah encouraging a group of recalcitrant animals to enter the ark. Above them on the cross shaft Adam and even stand beneath a tree laden with voluptuous fruits, its trunk encircled by the serpent. The base of the north cross has a fine illustration of loaves and fishes representing the feeding of the five thousand. Three miles north of Castledermot take a left turn at the large sign for the Moone High Cross Inn, a very attractive old stone-built dwelling. A mile of winding road brings you to a little old octagonal gate lodge. Turn to the right in front of a large white house and proceed in a straight line for two miles to a signpost for the cross of Moone. There is no Celtic cross to equal this one. Tall and graceful, it is covered with the most exquisite relief carvings -- at the one time extremely simple in design and yet bubbling over with character and good humour. The twelve apostles, and others have square bodies, pointed feet and triangular faces. Equally geometrical figures illustrate familiar tales such as the Flight into Egypt and Daniel in the Lions' Den. Various beasts adorn the shaft of the cross and there is an incomparable panel of intertwined serpents. Rebuilding of the dismal ruined friary, is in progress to give the cross a more secure and worthy home. The road north from Moone is the byway to Ballitore, a village associated with a remarkable group of articulate and industrious Quakers. Turn right at the crossroads just over two miles north of Moone, then be diverted by sign for Crookstown Mill. In a shady hollow, this 19th century watermill has been lovingly restored by its owner, Jim MAHER, who bought it in 1971 and raised his family there. In the summer months it is open to visitors to tour the mill, enjoy a cup of tea, see an exhibition of artefacts and perhaps buy local craftwork. A phone call in advance will assure you of a welcome in winter, (tel. +353 507 23222). . After a gap of some years, during which their Meeting House was converted to a public library, Ballitore Quakers meet for worship there on Sundays. An exhibition commemorates their presence over the past three centuries. In the 18th century one of the community, Abraham SHACKLETON, opened a school which welcomed all religions and educated people, such as Edmund BURKE, who would obtain world renown. Later, one of SHACKLETON's granddaughters, Mary LEADBETTER, wrote 'The Annals of Ballitore,' a diary of local events, which included incidents in the Rising of 1798. Her home by the riverside has been restored and opened as a museum. From Ballitore you may return quickly to Dublin - or perhaps be tempted to continue to explore the Barrow Valley. A signpost to Athy, off the main rod a little to the north of Ballitore takes you to that charming town and to a pleasant rod along the river back to Carlow to complete a circuit. The region abounds in B&B's and hotels of great character including Kilkea Castle, an ancient family seat of the FITZGERALD clan."

    02/20/2007 03:14:42