SNIPPET: Fermanagh, is the most westerly county of Northern Ireland. With its many lakes, rivers and wooded islands, water is a predominant feature, reflected in the prevalence of fishing and dominance of dairy over arable farming. The climate leans to moistness and the county's green, lush quality is directly related to his high rainfall. There is a saying that for half the year Lough Erne is in Fermanagh, while in the other half Fermanagh is in Lough Erne! In the 1730s Dean William HENRY penned: "The face of this county is infinitely variegated, and affords in summer to a person standing on one of its mountains ... one of the most curious and entertaining prospects in Europe. Vast mountains descending into large valleys beautified with lawns, lakes, rivers and infinite numbers of small rising hills, which are covered with corn, herds or flocks, and generally skirted with small woods and a little brook twisting round. In the midst, Lough Erne flowing like a sea interspersed with 400 islands of all sizes, with gentlemen's seats and towns. From this vast basin in the land rising again in each side by degrees, first in flat meadows green as beds of leeks, extending along its shores, then in small hills, variegated with corn and cattle, and terminating in mountains which seem to touch the clouds." Fermanagh's mountains are mainly around its rim, many presenting dramatic limestone and sandstone scarps much favoured by climbers, cavers and walker. The most striking points are in the area of Cuilcagh Mountain (2,195 ft.) straddling the Fermanagh-Cavan border, and the adjacent Marlbank and Hanging Rock. There are extensive caves around Boho and Marble Arch, while the limestone knolls, jagged valleys and cliff faces of the Knockmore district have earned it comparison with Switzerland. Fishing, boating and watersports contribute to Fermanagh's tourism economy. The Erne-Shannon waterway, recently re-opened, links Enniskillen with Limerick. The only town of any size is Enniskillen, built on an island on the Erne between the upper and lower lakes and with a long military and trading history. John ARCHDALE came from Darsham in England in 1614 and built a castle north of Enniskillen soon after. Despite the castle's being burnt in the 1641 rising, and again in 1687, the family has survived with varying fortunes through eleven generation in the past four centuries. Comprising over 33,000 acres in the 1850s, much of the estate was sold off to tenants in the early years of the last century by Edward ARCHDALE. Today, Castle ARCHDALE is a public park famous for its beautiful grounds and wildlife. Other settlements include the small towns and villages of Irvinestown, Lisnaskea, Garrison, Belleek, Derrygonnelly, Belcoo, Ballinamallard, Newtownbutler, Tempo, Brookeborough and Maguiresbridge. Fermanagh's abundant water facilitated early settlement, both in terms of travel an food supply. Late stone age hunter-gatherers lived on fish from the lakes and fruits, nuts and small animals from the forests. Traces of their stone axes have been found around Lough Macnean in the SW of the county. Later settlers, about six thousand years ago, brought farming skills, clearing forests and rearing animals. They erected fine strong tombs, and Fermanagh has many examples of such passage graves and dolmens. During the later Bronze and Iron ages, incoming settlers interacted with those already there, imparting metal-working and trading skills and leaving evidence of their weapons, tools and personal effects. During the iron age, Celtic settlers and their ways became dominant. Cattle-rearing, tribal structure, epic tales, ornamental artwork and the first written language (Ogham) recorded on standing-stones were all features of Celtic culture. Their hill-forts still dot the drumlin belt of Fermanagh, while on the lakes are crannogs where families similarly found protection from animals and enemies. Fermanagh is rich is early Christian relics; the round towers and high crosses of Devenish Island continuing the earlier tradition of carved heads on Boa Island. Viking raiders penetrated Lough Erne in the 9th century, and are reported to have attacked monasteries on and along the lake, including Devenish, in 837, and returning at times over the next century or so. Also during these centuries various Ulster dynasties were competing for dominance and Fermanagh was often the proving ground . County history includes a bewildering succession of battles, alliances, broken promises, the rise of the Fermanagh kings, arrival of Normans in Bellek, increasing English influence, plantation of Scots and English settlers with surnames that included COLE, HAMILTON, DUNBAR, ELLIOTT, WILSON, IRVINE. Of native Irish origin are surnames to include MAGUIRE, McMANUS, DOLAN, McGOVERN, CASSIDY, REILLY, McELROY and FLANAGHAN. A very numerous name in Fermanagh in the 17th century, CORRIGANs are also widely recorded in Monaghan, Louth, and Westmeath. Further reading: (1) "Willie O'KANE, "Surnames of Co. Fermanagh," Irish Roots" magazine (1996 #2) published in Co. Cork. (2) "The Fermanagh Story: a Documented History of the County from the Earliest Times to the Present Day," regarded as a definitive work, Peadar LIVINGSTONE (1969). (3). For a more personal survey of folks culture and anthropology of south Fermanagh, Henry GLASSIE's, "Passing the Time: Folklore and History of an Ulster Community" (1982).