> I want to take pictures at cemeteries and wondering what kind of > resolution I should look for in a digicam, as well as any other > features that would be good for genealogical purposes. I realize > that more pixels gives better pictures, but it makes for larger > pictures, more space taken up etc. > > [email protected] Storage is cheap... GB CF cards are available for under $100, and can hold something like 500 4MP JPEG images (and around 200 8MP -- but only around 72 8MP RAW on my 20d). 6MP on a P&S, 8-10MP on an APS-C SLR (P&S have smaller, physically, sensors, and packing more pixels into a smaller space makes for more noise at equivalent "ISO"). I'm rather picky when it comes to cameras -- I want full manual control as an option, hot-shoes for accessory flash (the built-in flash is not the best choice in many cases -- too close to the lens means little to no shadows [shadows bring out details of carvings]; too weak -- typically a 10-15 foot range at high sensitivities => higher noise in the image; can't be bounced). Custom white balance capability (pick up a set of Kodak grey cards to go with it -- using manual settings you can use the grey card to 1) set the "base" exposure [the polar bear in snowstorm effect: cameras assume they are seeing an 18% grey field, and will conclude that white-on-white is highly lit, so will reduce exposure to make it grey; use the grey card to set manual exposure for grey, and the white-on-white will stay white. I say "base" as, if the histogram display shows too much clipping of highlights you will have to reduce the exposure some to shift things darker], 2) set a neutral white balance [as with exposure, cameras assume they are looking at 18% grey /color tone/, and will "correct" images that are primarily one color to make that color look greyish) Ignore any specs for "digital zoom", only "optical zoom" is useful (digital zoom is the same as taking a non-zoomed picture, cropping out all but the middle, and then magnifying the pixels to print as if it were the size of the full image). Viewfinder for normal use... These P&S models where you have to hold your arms out to compose on an LCD are harder to hold steady. Unlike some, I do not find wide-angle/close-focus (this applies to P&S models, not changeable lens SLRs) that useful for documentation purposes. Backing up and using full telephoto results in a "flatter" (less distorted) image with more depth-of-field than creeping up to 7 inches and going wide-angle. (Note: if the viewfinder is off-axis, as with P&S models, you may need to compose [on tripod] using the LCD) A decent tripod for the size of the camera (technically, even my $100 tripods are on the light-weight end for my SLRs). Remote release capability -- infrared remote is nice (pity my 20d needed a costly wired remote). This can allow you to set the camera up, and then move away to hold lighting assists (see next) Fold up reflector(s) (I should buy one larger model than my current collection [I think my large is a 32" 5-in-1] -- since one needs go large to get avoid "hot-spots" on objects (a 20-30" is about right for just head portraits <G>). These come in different patterns. For stones, a silver/white or silver/black may be all you need (black, which I don't own, can be used to /block/ light; silver reflects with minimal color tinting -- other finishes are gold, "soft" versions of silver or gold, shiny white... A 5-in-1 model has a core of white diffuser [lets the light come through it] with a reversible cover that give silver/white/gold/soft gold surfaces). Not easy to use with a bounce flash as you can't see the effect (aim) except by taking pictures and checking on the LCD screen. -- bieber.genealogy Dennis Lee Bieber HTTP://home.earthlink.net/~bieber.genealogy/ Dennis Lee Bieber <[email protected]>