> [snip] > > I did the 37 marker test because that was the best available at the > time. > > Be advised that linking to ancestors depends on a number of > conditions. In my case my closest link is to a man whose family > name is not even in my genealogy but we have a 60% chance of having > the same ancestor 7 or 8 generations ago. I only have 5 generations > proven. > > To really learn something you almost have to match someone who has > the genealogy back to the Bible. > > More than 30 Sullivans have tested and I am not in the same > haplogroup as any of them so I have learned nothing so far except my > Neanderthal ancestors went from Africa to the Russian Steppes. > Yeah, I know, the Neanderthals forgot to keep breeding and > disappeared. No political comments please. > > "J. Hugh Sullivan" <[email protected]> It sounds as though y-DNA testing of some cousins might be called for--male line descendants of your paternal grandfather, great- grandfather, great-great-grandfather, etc--in order to insure that you all share the same y-DNA. I would certainly want confirmation that I shared y-DNA with my most distant known SULLIVAN cousin; that way, I would be fairly sure that if there was an adoption or "non-paternal event" in my ancestry, it must have occurred at least several generations back. "Ron Head" <[email protected]>

> Our family is of Slavic origin, but recently my father was diagnosed > with a rare blood disorder that affects mostly people of European > Jewish origin. I am curious about whether our family has some > Jewish ancestors. I would like to have my father's DNA tested and > would greatly appreciate recommendations about which testing > services are the best and which to avoid. If there is someone who > doesn't want to post this information, please email me. > > "Vicky" <[email protected]> I was very satisfied with Family Tree DNA. http://www.familytreedna.com/ I did the 37 marker test because that was the best available at the time. Be advised that linking to ancestors depends on a number of conditions. In my case my closest link is to a man whose family name is not even in my genealogy but we have a 60% chance of having the same ancestor 7 or 8 generations ago. I only have 5 generations proven. To really learn something you almost have to match someone who has the genealogy back to the Bible. More than 30 Sullivans have tested and I am not in the same haplogroup as any of them so I have learned nothing so far except my Neanderthal ancestors went from Africa to the Russian Steppes. Yeah, I know, the Neanderthals forgot to keep breeding and disappeared. No political comments please. Hugh [email protected] (J. Hugh Sullivan)

Our family is of Slavic origin, but recently my father was diagnosed with a rare blood disorder that affects mostly people of European Jewish origin. I am curious about whether our family has some Jewish ancestors. I would like to have my father's DNA tested and would greatly appreciate recommendations about which testing services are the best and which to avoid. If there is someone who doesn't want to post this information, please email me. Thanks, Vicky "Vicky" <[email protected]>

> I've access to all the U.S. Census records and their images and am > willing to do free look ups for those who do not have access. > Please provide surname and given name and possible city/state > locations for your ancestor. Please do not post on this site as I do > not check frequently. Please send all queries to > [email protected] > > Dave Herring Could you look up Mary McClelland she died in Fall River MA in the 1930s Thank you Ed remove the nospamplease [email protected]

"Virginia Beck" <[email protected]> wrote: > > My wife found a newspaper story today about one of her relatives > > that dates from 1949. In it is a picture that unfortunately has > > been torn. What is the best way to preserve this picture, and or > > restore it. She wants to tape it, but I suspect that this is not > > the best thing to do. > > > > John Nichols" <[email protected]> > > I am in the process of archiving annual scrapbooks dated from > 1935-36 which were assembled by various historians for our chapter > of the D.A.R. The early ones are almost entirely newsprint, and in > very brittle and yellowed condition. Our aim is twofold: (1) to > preserve the original material (2) to create more permanent copies > that can be handled and read. > [snippage of very useful stuff] It is, Virginia, and thank you! "John Nichols" <[email protected]>

> > I haven't seen anyone mention the method I heard about a while ago: > > > > http://tinyurl.com/hersh (a link to a Google search) > > > > Apparently, Milk of Magnesia, dissolved in club soda, does the > > trick; preserving, anyway. It neutralizes the acid in the paper. I > > haven't tried this myself, so YMMV. > > > > turtlelover <[email protected]> > > Actually someone made an oblique reference to it in an email to me > on the subject. Sounds messy, and easy to screw up. > > John Nichols Yeah, it's real messy. TIPS to remember IF you try it -- Test an unnecessary corner of it first -- water often washes ink off, which sort of defeats the whole purpose. for 8x10 or smaller items, use a baking sheet with sides to hold the milk of magnesia, and layer the newspaper between two sheets of plastic canvas before you dip it. The plastic canvas supports the wet paper but lets it drain. Easier to buy buffered acid-free interleafing. Cheryl singhals <[email protected]>

> > > I haven't seen anyone mention the method I heard about a while ago: > > > > > > http://tinyurl.com/hersh (a link to a Google search) > > > > > > Apparently, Milk of Magnesia, dissolved in club soda, does the > > > trick; preserving, anyway. It neutralizes the acid in the paper. I > > > haven't tried this myself, so YMMV. > > > > > > turtlelover <[email protected]> > > > > Actually someone made an oblique reference to it in an email to me > > on the subject. Sounds messy, and easy to screw up. > > > > "John Nichols" <[email protected]> > > Especially when one considers that the club soda is slightly acidic > to start with... > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbonic_acid > """ > For a CO2 pressure typical of the one in soda drinks bottles > (\scriptstyle p_{CO_2} ~ 2.5 atm), we get a relatively acid medium (pH = > 3.7) with a high concentration of dissolved CO2. These features are > responsible for the sour and sparkling taste of these drinks. > """ > > Dennis Lee Bieber Thanks, Dennis. I haven't tried it myself, but since I buy neither MoM *nor* club soda, I guess I won't try it in the near future. My apologies to John (the OP). In 200 years, I hope you'll all join me when I ask those who posted this method on web pages if their preserved newspapers are still ... preserved. (No, I *won't* soak myself in MoM and club soda.) ;^D [ Note, all, that Milk of Magnesia is alkaline. Depending upon the proportions of the mixture, a club soda/MoM mixture may be acidic, neutral, or alkaline ... The mixture may act as a pH buffer. I am not, of course, commenting on whether club soda/MoM makes a competent deacidifying treatment. - Mod ] Cheers, Turtlelover turtlelover <[email protected]>

> > I haven't seen anyone mention the method I heard about a while ago: > > > > http://tinyurl.com/hersh (a link to a Google search) > > > > Apparently, Milk of Magnesia, dissolved in club soda, does the > > trick; preserving, anyway. It neutralizes the acid in the paper. I > > haven't tried this myself, so YMMV. > > > > turtlelover <[email protected]> > > Actually someone made an oblique reference to it in an email to me > on the subject. Sounds messy, and easy to screw up. > > "John Nichols" <[email protected]> Especially when one considers that the club soda is slightly acidic to start with... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbonic_acid """ For a CO2 pressure typical of the one in soda drinks bottles (\scriptstyle p_{CO_2} ~ 2.5 atm), we get a relatively acid medium (pH = 3.7) with a high concentration of dissolved CO2. These features are responsible for the sour and sparkling taste of these drinks. """ -- bieber.genealogy Dennis Lee Bieber HTTP://home.earthlink.net/~bieber.genealogy/ Dennis Lee Bieber <[email protected]>

> My wife found a newspaper story today about one of her relatives > that dates from 1949. In it is a picture that unfortunately has > been torn. What is the best way to preserve this picture, and or > restore it. She wants to tape it, but I suspect that this is not > the best thing to do. > > John Nichols" <[email protected]> I am in the process of archiving annual scrapbooks dated from 1935-36 which were assembled by various historians for our chapter of the D.A.R. The early ones are almost entirely newsprint, and in very brittle and yellowed condition. Our aim is twofold: (1) to preserve the original material (2) to create more permanent copies that can be handled and read. I contacted the conservator at the San Diego Historical Society for help, and was told the following: While damage to old newspaper clippings cannot be reversed, it can be slowed down by either encasing the items in acid-free, archival quality polypropylene sleeves (called sheet covers at Staples). We chose the non-reflective type. We prefer this method, since the pages are not only protected from further deterioration, but the scrapbooks can still be handled and viewed without harm to the contents. The disadvantage is that moisture can collect in these sleeves if they are not stored in a completely dry area. (Ideally, all your valuable books and papers should be stored in a place that is cool and dry, and out of any bright light.) For pages too large to fit in the letter or legal sized sleeves, there is an "interleaving" tissue (quite thin) and paper (heavier weight) made especially for the purpose of preserving old books and papers. It is placed between the pages of the books or albums, and absorbs the acid. It does need to be replaced every three to five years, when it becomes discolored. (sources for this paper are the Lumiere Company, which specializes in archival materials for photography, at http://www.lumierephoto.com and Print File Archival Storage, at: http://printfilecom, which has a wider range of supplies. There is some self-adhesive linen tape in their list, which might be what you need to hold your clipping together. Neither Scotch-tape nor laminating was recommended by the Historical Society conservator. (If the links don't come through, just enter the company name in Google.) For more lasting copies, I am scanning the contents to CD, then printing out a copy of each scrapbook on acid-free archival paper and placing it in an archival-quality binder. The cost of copying a single article is probably not a consideration in your case, but at 15 cents per page at Kinko's, would have been out of reach of our D.A.R. chapter's limited budget. The cost of the completed scrapbooks and copies have ranged from $9.85 (30 pages, using interleaving paper) to $22.95 (62 pages, using polypropylene sleeves). I hope this is helpful. Virginia. "Virginia Beck" <[email protected]>

> I haven't seen anyone mention the method I heard about a while > ago: > > http://tinyurl.com/hersh (a link to a Google search) > > Apparently, Milk of Magnesia, dissolved in club soda, does the > trick; preserving, anyway. It neutralizes the acid in the > paper. I haven't tried this myself, so YMMV. > > turtlelover <[email protected]> I don't know about using it to preserve paper, but it absolutely will not repair the tear. -- }:-) Christopher Jahn {:-( http://home.comcast.net/~xjahn/Main.html Let him who takes the Plunge remember to return it by Tuesday. Christopher Jahn <[email protected]>

> I haven't seen anyone mention the method I heard about a while ago: > > http://tinyurl.com/hersh (a link to a Google search) > > Apparently, Milk of Magnesia, dissolved in club soda, does the > trick; preserving, anyway. It neutralizes the acid in the paper. I > haven't tried this myself, so YMMV. > > turtlelover <[email protected]> Actually someone made an oblique reference to it in an email to me on the subject. Sounds messy, and easy to screw up.

> Use neither tape nor laminating. The microfilm idea is great. And > if you really want to keep the original, there are sprays available > from archival supply companies that will de-acidify newsprint. > There are also some tapes that are archivally safe. But you won't > find them in Walgreens. <g> Try some place like University Products > or Gaylords, among many other reputable places. Deacidification > spray is expensive, so it will depend on how important the original > is to you. > > But regular tape and lamination are sure ways to futher destroy > paper. Lamination makes it even worse, because there's nowhere for > the off-gassing to escape, and the laminated paper cooks in its own > juices, so to speak. > > A GREAT little book (and inexpensive) is "An Ounce of Preservation: > A Guide to the Care of Papers and Photographs." It's under $10 at > Amazon: > > http://www.amazon.com/Ounce-Preservation-Guide-Papers-Photographs/dp/1568250215/sr=8-11/ > qid=1158446191/ref=sr_1_11/002-7098679-2902423?ie=UTF8&s=books > > In my opinion, this may be one of the most valuable items for a > family historian or genealogist to have.q > > C.R. <[email protected]> Thanks!

> My wife found a newspaper story today about one of her relatives > that dates from 1949. In it is a picture that unfortunately has > been torn. What is the best way to preserve this picture, and or > restore it. She wants to tape it, but I suspect that this is not > the best thing to do. > > "John Nichols" <[email protected]> I haven't seen anyone mention the method I heard about a while ago: http://tinyurl.com/hersh (a link to a Google search) Apparently, Milk of Magnesia, dissolved in club soda, does the trick; preserving, anyway. It neutralizes the acid in the paper. I haven't tried this myself, so YMMV. Good luck! turtlelover <[email protected]>

> My wife found a newspaper story today about one of her relatives > that dates from 1949. In it is a picture that unfortunately has > been torn. What is the best way to preserve this picture, and or > restore it. She wants to tape it, but I suspect that this is not > the best thing to do. > > "John Nichols" <[email protected]> Use neither tape nor laminating. The microfilm idea is great. And if you really want to keep the original, there are sprays available from archival supply companies that will de-acidify newsprint. There are also some tapes that are archivally safe. But you won't find them in Walgreens. <g> Try some place like University Products or Gaylords, among many other reputable places. Deacidification spray is expensive, so it will depend on how important the original is to you. But regular tape and lamination are sure ways to futher destroy paper. Lamination makes it even worse, because there's nowhere for the off-gassing to escape, and the laminated paper cooks in its own juices, so to speak. A GREAT little book (and inexpensive) is "An Ounce of Preservation: A Guide to the Care of Papers and Photographs." It's under $10 at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Ounce-Preservation-Guide-Papers-Photographs/dp/1568250215/sr=8-11/ qid=1158446191/ref=sr_1_11/002-7098679-2902423?ie=UTF8&s=books In my opinion, this may be one of the most valuable items for a family historian or genealogist to have.q C.R. [email protected]

> I have always laminated them and have done great. You might > want to do that AFTER you get a restored copy. > > "alrad" <[email protected]> Proper lamination - not that cheap sticky kind. -- }:-) Christopher Jahn {:-( http://home.comcast.net/~xjahn/Main.html An apple every eight hours will keep three doctors away. Christopher Jahn <[email protected]>

> My wife found a newspaper story today about one of her relatives > that dates from 1949. In it is a picture that unfortunately has > been torn. What is the best way to preserve this picture, and or > restore it. She wants to tape it, but I suspect that this is not > the best thing to do. > > "John Nichols" <[email protected]> Do NOT tape it - the glue eats away at the paper and can stain it. You can get archival photo sleeves - it's a stable plastic that will protect the piece while allowing you to view it. You can even plop it in a scanner. -- }:-) Christopher Jahn {:-( http://home.comcast.net/~xjahn/Main.html Jesus loves you. Everyone else thinks you're an asshole. Christopher Jahn <[email protected]>

> [...] Now throw the clipping away, as newsprint is so > acidic that it will eat itself and most other things it comes in > contact with. > > Gerry In the mid 1950s I cut out from the Washington Post a couple of articles about parthenogenesis in turkeys. I pasted the articles onto blank white paper - using the inexpensive paper and washable glue that my parents provided for their children's school work etc. Every now and then I come across them. Each time I am amazed by the fact that the newspaper does not appear to have aged, presumably because of the glue paste (whatever it was). [email protected] (cecilia)

> My wife found a newspaper story today about one of her relatives > that dates from 1949. In it is a picture that unfortunately has > been torn. What is the best way to preserve this picture, and or > restore it. She wants to tape it, but I suspect that this is not > the best thing to do. > > "John Nichols" <[email protected]> I want to thank everyone who has responded, both here and in some emails that I have received. So far the consensus seems to be scanning it, along with a microfilm search and archiving the original. The picture in question is in a Columbus, Ohio paper from that time. I've no doubt that either a library in Franklin County or the Ohio Historical Society there has a copy on film. I should explain that my wife is presently in Columbus executing the estate of her recently deceased mother. I've forwarded the email suggestions and will forward the ones from here. Thanks again for all the very helpful suggestions. "John Nichols" <[email protected]>

> > My wife found a newspaper story today about one of her relatives > > that dates from 1949. In it is a picture that unfortunately has > > been torn. What is the best way to preserve this picture, and or > > restore it. She wants to tape it, but I suspect that this is not > > the best thing to do. > > > > John Nichols <[email protected]> > > If you've got photoshop and are comfortable with it, a tear is > fairly easy to work with. I was at Walgreens the other day and see > that they have a photo restoration service that does exactly what > you're talking about. They scan it in to a computer, fix the tear > digitally, and give you a real photo print of the results. No idea > on cost, but if they're selling it at the photo counter of > Walgreens, it can't be _that_ bad. > > No idea where you're at, but in this part of the world (Wisconsin, > USA) you can't throw a stick without hitting 3 Walgreens > drugstores... > > Dave Hinz <[email protected]> Actually there's a Walgreen's right down the street from where my wife presently is. :)

> No idea where you're at, but in this part of the world (Wisconsin, > USA) you can't throw a stick without hitting 3 Walgreens > drugstores... > > Dave Hinz You know, I once had a textbook which used Walgreen's and Fisk in the text; it took the class most of the semester to figure out that they were a drugstore and a tire company. (g) Cheryl singhals <[email protected]>