Transcribed by Susan Bergeron. Geo. News Chronicle Saturday, February 8th, 1941 Your Apples Should Marry By Albert GURIE I well remember a standard rose tree in a neighbour's front garden being an object of special interest, merely because it produced blooms of two distinct colours, in this case a deep red and a flesh pink. Inadvertently, the nurseryman had grafted two varieties on to the same briar stock. Something on similar lines but by design and not accident, is being done with varieties of apples, the object being to overcome the troublesome question of the pollination of self-sterile varieties. You probably know that if you planted a Cox's Orange Pippin where there were no suitable varieties nearby to pollinate it, the tree would bloom but there would be few or no apples. But we hear now of fertile Cox's Orange trees, and the explanation of this is that a branch of the variety James GRIEVE a very suitable partner for the marriage is grafted on to the stock in addition to the Cox's Orange, with the result that there are two varieties on one tree. This should prove a boon to those who fancy this delicious dessert variety and have room for growing only one apple tree, as the question of planting a companion variety does not now arise. It would be interesting to extend the idea yourself to other varieties, especially if you like to do a little experimenting. To do this, you should cut some shoots from the chosen varieties while the apple trees are still dormant. Each shoot should have at least four dormant buds, and will constitute the scion for grafting in spring. Nothing more need be done just now, except to lay in the shoots under a wall or similar place with a northerly aspect to delay development of the buds. PARSNIPS, Old and New Last year's parsnips still in the ground are beginning to produce new leaves, which is a sign that if they are left there much longer their flavour will be considerably impaired. So lift the remainder of the crop at the first opportunity, and store the roots in sand, ashes or fine soil. They will keep quite well like that for some weeks. For NEXT WINTER It is time to think of next winter's supply too. Few realise until they grow them that parsnips monopolise a piece of ground practically the whole year round. Still, there is compensation for this. On the whole, it is a trouble-free vegetable to grow, and it must be borne in mind that it comes next to the potato in food value. Good crops can only be grown when a long period of growth is given to the plants, which means that it is difficult to make up for lost time through seed failing to germinate. It takes anything from three to four weeks and sometimes longer before the seedlings are up, and during this time the seed easily rots, especially when sown in cold, wet soil. It is important then to provide the right conditions by getting the ground dug now, so that only one sowing is needed round about the end of the month. By then the soil is likely to be dry and in a crumbling state. Most soils will grow good parsnips, and often the crop will be more successful on heavy land than potatoes. The aim should be to obtain long, straight roots, and these can only be had when there are no obstructions to growth in the nature of hard clods or stones in the soil. IDEAL SITE Manure is best buried some twelve inches or so down whilst digging. The ideal is to choose a site which was treated to several barrow loads of organic material for a previous crop, as late manuring, and the use of fresh manure particularly tends to make the roots fork badly. You may please yourself whether you sow continuously along a drill, thinning the seedlings eventually to nine inches apart, or drop in three or four seeds at regular stations. Personally, I prefer the latter method. Cover the seeds with roughly an inch of soil, and make firm with the back of the rake. If you decide to have more than one row, allow a space of not less than 15 inches between. .....