Folks, something happened to me tonight that I thought I should pass on to illustrate how useful some computer security programs really are. I did a Copernic search for websites that dealt with Eudora (my email program) settings/configuration. I don't know which site did the damage, but it changed my default web browser Start-Up page to a commercial site advertising all kinds of software. Then, every time I opened the web browser, and every time I went to a different website or page, pop-up windows opened all over the place. I almost drove me crazy! After about an hour of trying to configure my AdSubtract to disallow pop-ups for the sites I was visiting, I finally got smart. I realized it wasn't the sites I was visiting that were opening the pop-ups! It had to be "SpyWare". I ran AdAware and found 43 gremlins. One was the one that changed my web browser startup page, no matter if I reconfigured the web browser to start with a page of my choice. The other 42 were dastardly Registry entries that caused the web browser to automatically open pop- up windows for advertisements every time I opened a new website, or a new page on a website. Danged near drove me crazy. Anyway, I deleted those pieces of &*^%$#(%* and things are OK again. Just wanted to send this to illustrate how useful some of these computer security programs/utilities are. If it had happened to you, and you didn't have AdAware or SpyBot, you would have been sorely troubled, and not been able to fix the problem. Please take all the suggestions and recommendations I gave in the original post very seriously. These days it's not just viruses and worms that can cause you problems -- more and more websites are putting crud on their sites that virtually take over your web browser. If it hasn't happened to you yet, you're lucky -- but, it will get you one of these days. Regards, SgtGeorge George W. Durman List Manager -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.4.1 - Release Date: 3/9/04

(continued from Part 3) HOW TO GET STARTED PRESERVING OLD PHOTOGRAPHS: The first step is to identify what the pictures show, because only photos that are identified and labeled are worth preserving. Sometimes it's best to start with your most current photos and work backward in time. Note what's going on in the picture, who's in it and where the photo was taken. Date the photo as closely as you can. Write the information on the back of the photo with a soft 6B drawing pencil, which is available in art supply shops. Be sure to use people's real names if you know them, not just associations like mother or grandfather. For home movies, write the identifications on the leader. Note when it was shot, by whom and what the event is. Home movies can be very difficult to identify. If possible, sit down with the person who made the movie, ask them to narrate it and take notes. Many people have old photos in their collections that are often unidentifiable. You often can't say with certainty whether the person shown is a family member. Set the pictures aside and work on them last. Put your energy into the ones that can be identified. After you've identified the photos, work on storing them properly. There are two primary ways to store photographic prints - using a filing system in archival boxes or using photo albums. Use file photos in archival boxes if you have a lot of photos to arrange. You can organize the pictures in files by subject, person, or year. Once the pictures are organized, you can pick the best and put them in an album. It's important to use acid free folders and boxes. The acids in paper products can be harmful to photos. Albums allow you to display pictures more easily, but also tend to be more expensive than filing. Some of the best pre-made albums are manufactured by Webway, a Minnesota company (do a web search for "Webway Photoalbums"). Again, seek out acid-free papers and notebooks made from archival board. Or you can buy clear plastic pages made from polypropylene and insert the photos. Do not use vinyl pages or notebooks. They emit harmful vapors and shorten the life of photos. In general, don't take apart existing photo albums. They're like diaries and scrapbooks; they have a personal story and order to them. Often they contain the handwriting of the person who made them. If the photos in an old album have become loose because of detached or missing photo corners, replace the photo corners. The exception to the "don't take apart rule" is magnetic photo albums. They contain a sticking material that is detrimental to photos, and they need to be taken apart. People buy them because they allow you to easily arrange photos on a page, but photo corners allow easy management too. Slides can be stored in boxes or carousel trays if you keep the lid on; they are very susceptible to dust, light, and extreme heat or cold. Non-vinyl slide pages can also be used. And if you have slides, photo CDs, home movies, or home videos, be sure to save the hardware that you'll need to view them. You'll need that equipment to enjoy your images, when the technology becomes obsolete in the future PRESERVING NEGATIVES: It's very important to save your negatives. Many people think negatives are a nuisance, but they are the originals and they'll allow you to make new prints if a print is destroyed. Negatives last well if they're not handled. Keep them in polyethylene or polypropylene sleeves. (A word about scanning photos, slides, and negatives. Scanning photos, no matter how high a resolution you use to scan, will almost always appear "grainy" if you increase their size beyond that of the originals. Slides and negatives, on the other hand, have such a high resolution that you can scan them and increase the size of printed pictures without degrading the quality. As an example, if you scan a 5x7 photo and increase its size in your computer graphics program to, say, 10x14, to print out a very large picture, it WILL be "grainy" and have no "sharpness"; scanning the negative from which the photo was originally made will allow you to increase the size greatly without degrading the quality of the picture.) Exposure to light can hurt photos. Locate framed pictures on the least sunny walls in your house. Better yet, make a copy of the photo and keep the original in dark storage. Metal frames are preferable to wood (wood contains acids). Use a 100 percent rag matte board and remove any wooden backing used in old frames. Dark storage is especially important for color photos, such as children's school portraits. Some studios do not process them properly, making them more susceptible to color changes. Since they come in multiples, display one and keep one in storage. If it changes color, have a black and white photo made. The absolute best film to use, if you want your pictures to be around for your grandchildren and their children, is black and white. Most color photos fade over time. If black and white pictures don't seem appropriate or possible, then take color prints or slides. Prints have the advantage of being easier to view, and they don't accumulate dust as much as slides. Instant pictures are good for parties and games only. They're likely to disappear in 10 years, so when you're going to document an important event, leave your instant camera at home. If you're going to purchase a digital camera for photos, make sure it will take pictures with a HIGH resolution and in large sizes. Older digital cameras, and newer inexpensive ones, usually took pictures of very small sizes and resolutions. You can't take a graphic from one of those cameras and increase its size beyond about 3x5 inches. Copy photography is the way to save the images on torn or defaced photographs. A basic rule in photograph preservation is to leave the original just the way it is. The copy photographer uses retouched copy negatives or copy prints to bring back the image. -------------------------------------------------------------------- I hope this will help some of you with your photographs and documents, both old and new. Regards, SgtGeorge George W. Durman -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.2.1 - Release Date: 3/5/04

(continued from Part 2) MORE TIPS FOR PRESERVING OLD PHOTOGRAPHS AND DOCUMENTS: Since the beginning of time, mankind has been recording history; however, only within the past 150 years have we been able to document history photographically. What we learn about our past provides a transition from our ancestors to our offspring. Photographs provide a graphic portrayal of yesterday, but if we neglect and do not preserve our photographs, some of our history will fade away along with those images. DETERIORATION: ENVIRONMENTAL - Temperature and humidity affect photographs and documents more than any other element. Best conditions are under 70 degree F with the relative humidity under 50%. High humidity is most harmful and high temperatures accelerate the deterioration. Cyclic conditions (High heat and humidity followed by cold and dry weather, followed by high heat, etc.) are very bad for film emulsion and may cause cracking and separation of the emulsion from the support. AVOID THE FOLLOWING: Attics and Basements - The worst places to store your photographs or documents is in an un-insulated attic or basement. In the summer, temperatures in an attic could reach 125 degrees F, while in the winter they can get down to less than 0 degrees. With the constant high temperatures and humidity in the summer and low temperatures and humidity in the winter, the photographs or documents will become brittle. In severe cases, the emulsion (image) on the photograph can separate from the base (paper). These cyclic conditions will have a devastating effect on any paper product. Un-insulated basements are usually moist, which can cause photographs to stick to each other. Another problem encountered in basements is that they are great breeding grounds for insects and rodents which are strongly attracted to gelatin and cellulose in the photographic emulsion. The best places to store important photographs or documents are in a safe deposit box at your bank. They are usually climate controlled and kept dark to provide almost ideal storage conditions. The ideal storage conditions are 68 degrees +/- 2 degrees and 50% relative humidity +/- 5% relative humidity. Wood, Paper and Paper Products - Wood and papers contain harmful additives such as bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Use only paper products that are acid free. Proper storage containers are available from archival suppliers (see below). Miscellaneous Materials - Rubber bands or rubber cement contain sulphur which degrades photographic emulsions. Paper clips can abrade or scratch the surfaces of prints or negatives. Pressure sensitive tapes usually contains acids which can accelerate the deterioration process. Any kind of ink also contains acids. Fingerprints on prints or negatives create physical damage from the oils and acids in human skin . Fumes and Vapors - from oil-based paints, varnishes, shellac, carbon monoxide (automobiles stored in garages), and photocopiers, including laser copiers cause serious damage to photographs and documents. (Most photocopiers produce ozone as a by-product; ozone acts as a bleach and the fumes may accelerate the deterioration). Also, the intense light and heat from copiers are detrimental to photographs. SAFE STORAGE: Paper - Use only lignin-free (lignin is from paper pulp), acid-free, un-buffered paper. Use this paper to store photographs or as interleaving paper in albums. Plastics - Any of the following plastics are safe to use in storing photographs, negatives or documents: Polyester, Mylar, Polypropylene, Polyethylene, and Tyvek. (continued in Part 4) -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.2.1 - Release Date: 3/5/04

(continued from Part 1) HOW TO HYDRATE OLD DOCUMENTS THAT ARE HARD AND BRITTLE, AND HOW TO REPAIR THEM: Old documents are often rolled or folded and stuck in cedar chests and drawers for years before someone moves them to another drawer. They are aged in their shape and can break with handling. They are dry and need to be hydrated. Look around your home for a container with a tight fitting lid (not so tight fitting that the container needs to be tipped for a grip to take off the lid). One container that can be used is a new galvanized garbage can; try to find a small one if all you have is a few letter size documents. Inside the (clean) container, place a heavy bowl with a flat bottom. Inside of THIS bowl, place a glass of water. Documents can be placed, several at a time, around outside of the bowl in the large container (outside of the water please). Make sure they are stable enough not to tip over into the water. Place the lid on the container and leave it alone for several hours. Needless to say, this whole thing should be out of the way of dogs, children, and mothers who insist on constantly dusting! Put it in a spare room and close the door. After several hours, check the paper. Flex it to check how well it unrolls, unfolds, or just feels right. (It's like making dough - you learn the feel.) Some papers hydrate very quickly. A super thick post-Victorian wedding certificate might need to be left in as long as 24 hours, but many papers hydrate in six hours. Purchase white blotter paper in an art supply store. Lay one sheet of blotter paper down on a table, and spread the documents as flat as possible on the blotter paper. Check to make sure folded edges are unfolded, and torn edges close together. A set of stamp collector tweezers is perfect for this job and other steps to follow. Place another blotter paper on top. Weigh down this whole thing with heavy books (one use for an encyclopedia set). The blotter paper will absorb any excess moisture and mold is rarely a problem. Leave the documents pressed for 12 to 24 hours. If they roll when uncovered, they either need to be pressed more or they possibly need hydrated more (although that's very rare). After uncovering the documents, you can begin repair. Odd smudges of dirt and pencil can be encouraged off with a Pink Pearl eraser. Don't use any other kind. Other types of cleaning products should only be used by professionals, and the Pink Pearl eraser should be used with extreme caution. There is a special repair tape called "Filmoplast" (transparent). (Do a web search for "Filmoplast"; you will find dozens of sources.) The back of the document should always be repaired first. The Filmoplast tape is pH neutral and doesn't yellow. It also can be removed and applied again during the taping process, which is a big help for those doing this for the first time. Don't use scotch tape--EVER. Remove old tape if it won't destroy the document finish. It usually falls right off. Mylar top-loader envelopes are fine for storing smaller documents. They can be purchased at one of the discount chains on sale (very inexpensive, about $4 for 50). Archival companies charge a lot more. But many documents need bigger storage. You may also purchase a pack of large size Mylar sheets and a heavier Mylar roll in a very large size. To use these, you need double-sided tape. Make sure you purchase Ph neutral tape. (Again, just do a web search for "Mylar envelopes" or "Mylar sheets".) Cut two pieces of Mylar about one inch larger than the document you have. Lay the now repaired and flat document in the center of one Mylar piece. Unroll a length of double-sided tape and carefully place it from one corner of the document to another corner, leaving at least 1/4 inch of air space from the document to the tape. Repeat on each side, leaving an "air hole" of 1/8 inch or slightly larger at each corner. There will be a paper lining on the top side of the tape. Leave it in place for now. Lay another piece of Mylar on top. Set a gentle weight on top of the stack, so that your sheets don't move as you work. With your tweezers, work one edge of paper lining off of one length of tape. Strip it off, and then press the two Mylar pieces together on that side. Repeat, one side at a time. It can be tricky to do this without making a ripple, but the tape stays removable for a long time. An old squeegee roller can be used to set the tape after it is checked. Trim outside edges, if needed. Store flat in an archival box or artist's portfolio for the best preservation. The first document is nerve-wracking to do, but it really is easy. (continued in Part 3) -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.2.1 - Release Date: 3/5/04

Shirley, a subscriber to our GERMANNA_COLONIES Mailing List, forwarded some information to me from the JONES Mailing List. I've extracted the pertinent information about preserving old documents and am posting here. Shirley's note prompted me to search for other advice on preservation of old documents and photographs on the web. I found many articles and, rather than try to consolidate them, I've just extracted information from each article and typed it in its own section of this email. ---------------------------------------------------------- WARNING! Archivists have discovered the hard way that using ordinary lamination plastic for old documents, newspapers, etc., does not preserve them. The best way to preserve them it to store them in a dark place after placing in acid-free Mylar film (not laminated). Ordinary lamination material still permits light rays to pass through it and cause a chemical reaction to the acid that most modern paper contains, and that all old documents contain. This causes deterioration of the paper and fading of the paper and print. The heat and pressure of most lamination processes also damages documents. Of course, keeping original documents is important, but one should always copy (scan) newspapers and other documents and then print them on acid free paper, which can be found at just about all stores selling printer paper and/or computer supplies. Too, one should save the graphics files from scanned documents and put the files on CDs for permanent safekeeping. Life expectancy for data on CDs is 80-100 years for premium quality CDs. --------------------------------------------------------- EXCERPTS FROM VARIOUS WEB SITES: The key to preserving your paper documents is to keep them in an acid-free, humidity-controlled environment. Your paper documents need protection from a variety of elements which contribute to their deterioration -- namely: light; heat; humidity; acids in papers, plastics, and adhesives; pollutants; and pests. You can store and preserve your paper documents in a few different ways. You can organize and file your documents in acid-free folders, and keep them in an acid-free box. Or you could place your documents in archival-safe, acid-free plastic sleeves and keep them in an album or binder. Another popular alternative is to encapsulate a document between two sheets of polyester (Mylar) film. Regardless of how you choose to store your documents, NEVER STORE THEM IN AN ATTIC OR BASEMENT. Extreme temperature and humidity changes cause rapid deterioration. Store your items in a room that is comfortable to you, with stable temperature and humidity. Plastic enclosures are safe for documents ONLY if they are made of polyester, polypropylene, or polyethylene. Other plastics are not chemically stable and will release damaging acids over time. Especially dangerous is PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic commonly found in "store-bought" binders; it emits hydrochloric acid over time. There is no problem with putting more than one document in the same plastic sleeve, but documents should be interleaved with acid-free paper to prevent acid migration from one document to another. Acid-free paper that is buffered will also counteract the formation of more acids in the future. Lamination of a document is NOT considered a safe conservation technique because the process may potentially damage a document due to high heat and pressure during application. Moreover, the laminating materials themselves may be chemically unstable and contribute even more to the deterioration of the document. Lamination also violates a cardinal rule of conservation, and that is to only apply treatments that do not alter the item and which can be reversed. Lamination cannot be reversed. Since newspapers are made of highly acidic paper and deteriorate so quickly, you should always photocopy the information you want from them onto acid-free paper. You can then store the original paper in an acid-free box, or mount clippings in an archival scrapbook. Clippings could also be stored in acid-free file folders, interleaved with acid-free paper. If you want to frame the clipping, you should frame the acid-free copy rather than the original clipping. The inks used in photocopiers and printers are moderately durable. Most printers have no alternative ink available that will not fade with time. Epson does produce DuraBrite ink for some of its printers, which is water-, smudge-, and light-resistant. It is a good rule of thumb to photocopy any document you wish to preserve onto acid-free paper. If you then keep the original and copy away from light, heat, humidity, etc., the document should last for several generations. Incidentally, there are archival inks for use on paper when one makes entries by hand: Pigma ink comes in a pen (do a web search for "Pigma ink" or "Sakura", which is the company making this ink), and Actinic ink comes bottled for use with a quill pen or in an ink pad (do a web search for "Actinic ink"). Often when paper objects (such as wedding certificates) have been stored rolled for many years, they become quite brittle. In order to safely unroll your certificate, moisture needs to be restored to the document (known as humidification). Placing your document in a humid environment for several hours should make it more flexible, allowing you to carefully unroll and flatten it. Watch out for ink on the document that might bleed (don't humidify it if the ink will run). You may have to experiment with the level of humidity and the amount of time you leave the document exposed; monitor to make sure it does not get saturated. Attempt to carefully unroll the document while it is still humid; do not proceed if it resists or begins to crack or tear. You could then flatten it by placing the document between two pieces of blotting paper, and then place a heavy object on top for a few days. The same rules which apply for the safe storage of paper documents generally apply to photos. Again, there are a number of options for preserving your photos. If you prefer an album, archival albums have acid-free components such as scrapbook style pages, picture-pocket pages made of one of the safe plastics, etc. Store-bought albums with "magnetic" pages are typically highly acidic and dangerous to photos. Besides albums, there are acid-free boxes made to accommodate between 500 and 1000 prints. These boxes come with acid-free envelopes and sleeves for negatives. Finally, photographs can be encapsulated in polyester (acid-free, such as Mylar) film just like paper documents. There are a variety of storage options available for storing negatives. The best choice depends on the number of negatives and one's preference. Negatives can be stored in acid-free envelopes -- paper or plastic -- and placed in an acid-free box made for negatives and prints. There are also clear acid-free plastic sheets which hold various size negatives and can then be put in a binder. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) recommends non-buffered storage for color prints and negatives, and buffered storage materials for black and white prints and negatives. Nitrate film should be stored in buffered materials. When photos have been glued to photo album paper, the safest and recommended way to remove them from the paper is to carefully try to lift the photos off of the album page with a tool called a microspatula or a small spatula. Slip the microspatula under the edge of the photo, and carefully move it back and forth. The ease with which the photos come up may vary depending on the humidity level. Dry conditions may make prints and backing brittle, easier to lift. Or humid conditions may soften the adhesive and ease removal. Experiment with it, but DO NOT force the photos so that they tear. If you cannot lift them, cut away the black paper around the photo. If photos are on both sides of the page and you cannot cut around, interleave the pages of the album with acid-free paper and store the album in an acid-free box. (continued in Part 2) -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.2.1 - Release Date: 3/5/04

(continued from Part 1) 4) ANTI-VIRUS (AV) PROGRAMS: AV programs are the only programs that give you FULL protection against infected email and infected email attachments. Other security programs such as Firewalls, AdBlockers, and CookieBlockers help, but can't do all that AV programs can do. There are some things you must know about AV programs that are essential if you really want protection against viruses, worms, trojans, etc. a) First, you must have an AV program installed; b) The program itself must be kept updated with the latest engines; c) It must be kept updated with the latest Virus Definition files. d) It should be configured to automatically check every email and file you download; e) It need NOT be configured to automatically check every file the computer uses, since that eats up computer resources and really slows down the system; but, if you don't let it do this automatically, you MUST run scans on your system regularly, whether automated or manual; f) It need NOT be configured to automatically scan your system at selected intervals; but, you MUST run manual scans at regular intervals, preferably 2 or 3 times a week; g) Even if you have your AV program configured to check all incoming email and file downloads, you STILL need to run scans on your system regularly; infections DO slip through; further, you might download a virus/worm/trojan that was just released, and one for which the AV programers haven't released updated virus definition files; running regular scans ensures that your AV program will catch any infections that were missed. Even if you have an AV program installed, if you omit b) or c) above, you might as well use chicken bones and garlic and voodoo to ward off infections of your computer system. Most all good AV programs allow automatic updating. I suggest you USE automatic updating, especially now that these new infections are coming out almost daily, and some times more than one a day. And, even if using automatic updating, you should manually check a couple times a day until this latest epidemic slows down. Finally, on this subject, if you don't let the AV program automatically scan at selected intervals, you MUST run manual scans. I use AVG Pro as my AV program. I had it set to automatically updates every day at noon. From 1:30 AM Tuesday morning, until 12:00 Noon today (Wednesday) AVG released 5 virus updates !!!!! Only two of the updates were downloaded and installed automatically since I had AVG set to look only once a day. The other three were acquired by my manual checking. I have since added five more daily automatic checks! After adding the additional upgrade checks, I had one set for 12:00 Midnight; I didn't finish this post soon after I started it and came back to it at 2:00 AM; AVG Pro had checked at Midnight; I just did a manual check and another virus definition upgrade was released sometime between Midnight and 2:00 AM. Folks, there is a reason the AV companies are putting out virus definition updates so fast and furiously! New viruses/worms/trojans, or new variants of them, are being released every few hours now !!!!! I would suggest you configure your AV program to check for updates every 4 hours. I hope it doesn't get so bad we have to check every hour, or every half-hour. There is a free AVG program and an AVG Pro that costs $33.30. Both can be found at: <http://www.grisoft.com>. 5) CHECKING THE SECURITY OF YOUR SYSTEM: In addition to all the above, there is one more thing you can do to check the security of your system. Steve Gibson, of Gibson Research Corporation (GRC), has a website where you can check your system security. And, it's FREE. Go to: <http://www.grc.com/default.html> to read about the latest vulnerabilities of computer systems and to download some small (free) utilities to check your system. But, while you're at Steve's website, be sure to run the online tests he has available. At the main page, scroll down and click on "Shields Up", then follow the directions. At each page be sure to continue to the bottom and read all Steve has to say. There are some valuable tips there. a) First click on "File Sharing"; many (most?) of you will find that your system is NOT protected; Steve's "file-sharing) test attempts to contact the Hidden Internet Server within your PC. It is likely that no one has told you that your own personal computer may now be functioning as an Internet Server with neither your knowledge nor your permission. And that it may be serving up all or many of your personal files for reading, writing, modification and even deletion by anyone, anywhere, on the Internet! If you fail this test, Steve will recommend actions you can take to fix this security problem. b) Next, click on "Common Ports". This Internet Common Ports Probe attempts to establish standard TCP Internet connections with a collection of standard, well-known, and often vulnerable or troublesome Internet ports on YOUR computer. Since this is being done from our server, successful connections demonstrate which of your ports are "open" or visible and soliciting connections from passing Internet port scanners. If your system is properly protected, the probe should find NO ports vulnerable to Internet hackers or scanners. c) Next, click on "All Service Ports". This probe does the same thing as b) above, but checks an additional 1056 ports. It should find NO vulnerable ports. d) Next, click on "Messenger Spam". This will test whether your system is protected from unsolicited messages when you are using Microsoft Messenger. You have to have Messenger running when you do this test. If you are NOT protected, you will see the unsolicited messages pop up on your screen. e) Next, click "Browser Headers". Read all the instructions and then run the test. f) There are a number of free utilities you can download and run to finish checking out your system's security: "UnPlug n' Pray" "DCOMbobulator" "Shoot The Messenger" "ID Serve" (great for finding out the numerical value of a web server, e.g., www.rootsweb.com = 66.43.18.22.) "Wizmo" (lots of little free gadgets) "Leak Test" (Personal firewall leakage tester.) "XPdite" (Crucial Windows XP Vulnerability Fixer.) "SocketLock" (Disable WinXP and 2000 raw sockets.) "SocketToMe" (Check your Windows OS for raw sockets.) "FIX-CIH Virus Recovery" (Total recovery from CIH virus damage. Every April, the CIH virus resurfaces and wipes out thousands of hard disk drives by deliberately zeroing their partition, boot, and FAT tables. The first time this happened I wrote this complete post-CIH hard drive recovery utility.) "NoShare" (Quick and simple NetBIOS disabler. When the ShieldsUP! system was first created, I had not discovered how to safely "rebind" network transports as a means for closing the NetBIOS TCP/IP vulnerabilities. So I wrote the LetShare & NoShare utilities to do this quickly and easily (although in a non-standard fashion). Today, the manual rebinding described on the ShieldsUP! pages is the preferred method. LetShare & NoShare still work and can be useful for allowing quick NetBIOS on/off testing. "Trouble In Paradise (TIP)" (Check Iomega drive operation.) I hope all this information will help you keep your Windows system secure. If you have any questions, please do not reply back here to the Lists. Instead, email me privately at mailto:georgewdurman@comcast.net. Regards, SgtGeorge George W. Durman -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.1.4 - Release Date: 3/3/04

I don't mean to run this subject into the ground, but, since sending the past few notices about the latest virus threats, I've seen some replies that might indicate some users don't really understand about computer security problems and how to protect against them. Therefore, I'm going to give a short tutorial on the subject and hope that the information may keep more of you from becoming infected. There are several things I need to talk about here, so will just list them in categories. Actual info on Anti-Virus programs will be last. (I will recommend programs in each of the categories. Keep in mind that I'm only going to talk about the programs I use -- there are others, some not as good, and some as good. I endorse no product; I'm just going to tell you about the ones I use or have used in the past.) 1) FIREWALLS: A firewall is a computer program that blocks objectionable content while shielding the system from hackers, worms, and other threats. A good firewall will prevent individuals, other computers, and servers from entering your system via the Internet; it will also prevent YOUR computer from sending out information to others, from programs or utilities on your computer, such as "Call-Home" programs or other "Spy Ware". (More on spyware, and how to find and delete it, below.) Without a firewall, your system is open to others who can gain access via Internet connections, regardless of the type of connection. Without a good firewall, people can enter your system and steal files, plant trojans or worms, and even corrupt or erase your files. YOU ARE NOT PROTECTED AGAINST UNWANTED ACCESS TO YOUR COMPUTER VIA INTERNET CONNECTIONS BY ANY ANTI-VIRUS (AV) PROGRAM !!!!! You must have a firewall! If you have a cable connection, you are online 24/7; your computer is directly connected to the Internet at ALL times! Those who use a good firewall can attest to the dozens (sometimes hundreds) of intrusion attempts daily. I'm not going to count them, but just now looking at ZoneAlarm Pro, the firewall I use, I can see that my system has been queried (attempted entries) several HUNDRED times since midnight last night (about 18 hours ago) !!!!! Most are rated "Medium" risks, but there have been several dozen rated "High". All were stopped! If you use DSL or ordinary dialup connections, don't think you aren't at risk, or do not need a firewall. There are hackers out there who have set up automated programs on their servers to roam the Internet looking for open connections. These auto-bots can find your dialup connections in a matter of micro-seconds; and it doesn't take very long for them to do whatever they were programmed to do. EVERYONE NEEDS A GOOD FIREWALL !!! I use ZoneAlarm Pro (ZA Pro). It is rated by some security experts as the best protection you can get. There are other programs that some claim are just as good, and you can find them on the Web by doing a search for "Firewall". The regular ZoneAlarm (ZA) is free. The Pro version costs $49.95 and gives added protection for email, attachments, etc. It's up to you how much protection you want. Either program can be downloaded at: <http://www.zonelabs.com>. 2) SPYWARE FINDERS AND REMOVERS: It has been estimated that 75-80% of all home computer users have one or more "SpyWare" programs on their computers. Many users, running spyware finder programs, find literally HUNDREDS of spyware gremlins on their systems. Most of this spyware is not damaging to your SYSTEM, but can be very harmful to YOU by sending personal information to others, such as Social Security Numbers, email addresses, user IDs, usernames, passwords, your Web browsing habits, the files you have on your system, etc. If you don't use a firewall, you have no control over this spyware. It will send information without you knowing about it. So, the safest way to avoid spyware problems is to find the programs that have spyware and eliminate them. To find spyware finders and removers, do a search on the Web for "Spyware Program". I use two such detection programs, "Ad-Aware Plus" and "Spybot Search & Destroy". They do similar things, but you really need both of them. Each will catch some spyware the other misses. Between the two, you can remove all spyware from your system. Ad-Aware comes in a free basic version. The Plus version costs $26.95. Either can be found at: <http://www.lavasoft.de/>. Just because it's named "Ad-Aware" don't think it finds only Ad programs; it finds ANY spyware on your system. Spybot Search & Destroy is free. There are no paid-for versions. It can be found at: <http://safer-networking.org/>. It will also find malware, hijackers, dialers, keyloggers, trojans, etc. 3) AD & COOKIE BLOCKING PROGRAMS: There are dozens and dozens of these programs available. To find them all do a Web search for "Ad Blocker" or "Cookie Blocker". MS Internet Explorer and other web browsers have their own internal ad and cookie blockers, but they don't do as complete a job as good stand-alone programs. I use AdSubtract Pro, which will block all online ads & cookies. It blocks banner ads, Pop-Up and Pop-Under ads, text ads, and multimedia ads. It also silences Web site sounds and other bothersome multimedia animation. You can use "intelligent blocking" to enable InterMute's SmartPOP technology or "aggressive blocking" to prevent any Pop-Ups from appearing. The Pro version costs $29.95. There is a trial version which you can use free for 30 days, but it doesn't have all the blocking abilities that the Pro version has. You can find both versions at: <http://www.intermute.com/adsubtract/>. (The previous major version of AdSubtract had a free version. It is no longer available at the website, but I'm sure it can be found on the web. Lots of people probably still have the installation files for it sitting on their hard drives.) (continued in Part 2) Regards, SgtGeorge George W. Durman -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.1.4 - Release Date: 3/3/04

Correction to previous notice: It is not the Netsky.D virus. It is W32.Beagle/W32.Bagle (.H or .I). Sorry about the misinformation. I was only passing on what had been posted on the Listowners Mailing List. Doesn't really matter though, since this new infection is spreading like wildfire. The AV people estimate the chances of receiving an email with the infection is about 1:19. So, if you receive 190 emails daily, you might receive 10 infected messages. SgtGeorge ********************************************** (Please do not reply to this notice here on the Mailing Lists. If you must discuss it, contact the manager of the List.) Have any of you been receiving the latest Netsky.D infection? It's been hitting hard and heavy. I've seen quite a few posts on other Mailing Lists about it and McAfee wasn't catching it. Neither were AOL's AV software or any other server's software. BUT..... my AVG Pro DID catch it! Hooray! (AVG Pro has been updated 5 times in the past 32 hours!) FOR YAHOO EMAIL USERS (and probably others): Netsky.D is faking emails from Yahoo about users' accounts. Here is what the fake email looks like: ********************************************** Dear user of Yahoo.com, Your e-mail account will be disabled because of improper using in next three days, if you are still wishing to use it, please, resign your account information. For details see the attached file. Attached file protected with the password for security reasons. Password is 66482. The Management, The Yahoo.com team http://www.yahoo.com Attachment TextDocument.zip .zip file Scan and Download Attachment Scan and Save to my Yahoo! Briefcase ********************************************** DO NOT OPEN THE SUPPOSED TEXTDOCUMENT.ZIP !!!!! It is the Netsky.D virus!!!!! If you open it, you are infected immediately. Netsky.D will probably be sending itself purporting to be from other email services. Do not click on the attachment! Do not do ANYTHING with the email except delete it. If your Anti- Virus program is working AND has been updated during the past few hours, the AV program probably caught it. As of this morning McAfee hadn't updated virus definitions for it. They probably have by now. Regards, SgtGeorge -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.1.3 - Release Date: 3/3/04

(Please do not reply to this notice here on the Mailing Lists. If you must discuss it, contact the manager of the List.) Have any of you been receiving the latest Netsky.D infection? It's been hitting hard and heavy. I've seen quite a few posts on other Mailing Lists about it and McAfee wasn't catching it. Neither were AOL's AV software or any other server's software. BUT..... my AVG Pro DID catch it! Hooray! (AVG Pro has been updated 5 times in the past 32 hours!) FOR YAHOO EMAIL USERS (and probably others): Netsky.D is faking emails from Yahoo about users' accounts. Here is what the fake email looks like: ********************************************** Dear user of Yahoo.com, Your e-mail account will be disabled because of improper using in next three days, if you are still wishing to use it, please, resign your account information. For details see the attached file. Attached file protected with the password for security reasons. Password is 66482. The Management, The Yahoo.com team http://www.yahoo.com Attachment TextDocument.zip .zip file Scan and Download Attachment Scan and Save to my Yahoo! Briefcase ********************************************** DO NOT OPEN THE SUPPOSED TEXTDOCUMENT.ZIP !!!!! It is the Netsky.D virus!!!!! If you open it, you are infected immediately. Netsky.D will probably be sending itself purporting to be from other email services. Do not click on the attachment! Do not do ANYTHING with the email except delete it. If your Anti- Virus program is working AND has been updated during the past few hours, the AV program probably caught it. As of this morning McAfee hadn't updated virus definitions for it. They probably have by now. Regards, SgtGeorge -- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 7.0.225 / Virus Database: 262.1.3 - Release Date: 3/3/04

Just thought I would post a reminder to all subscribers of Lists I manage about automatic "Signature Lines" at the end of List posts. Here are things NOT allowed in Signature Lines: 1) Endless strings of surnames, permanently attached to and included as part of your signature line are inappropriate and are not to be included in messages sent to Mailing Lists, Message Boards, or anywhere else where you leave posts. 2) Other extraneous information, permanently attached to and included as part of your signature line, such as personal snail mail addresses; home or office phone or fax numbers; URLs associated with your website; your home page URL; your personal or office email address; your ICQ #; your family tree URL; URLs for all your surnames; "cutesy" sayings or quotes and biblical references or quotes, etc in an ad infinitum string, are inappropriate and are not to be included in your messages sent to Mailing Lists, Message Boards, or anywhere where you leave posts. Remember, I'm talking about *endless* strings of the above mentioned items attached to you signature line on a permanent basis, not the occasional piece of information of this nature that you may feel the need to send along with your message to the list; however, SURNAME lists in Signature Lines are NEVER appropriate. Let me explain the last sentence above. When you go to Rootsweb or Ancestry and do a search, let's say for DOE, and a poster has included a Signature Line that contains that surname, you will get a hit for posts by that poster, regardless of where he/she posted the message. It may have been in GEN-MAT (a List for advertising genealogy related materials for sale), VIRUS-DISCUSSION, COMPUTERS, EUDORA- WIN, FTM, etc., etc. When you do a search for a surname, you DON'T want to see all the non-genealogy Lists where posters put surnames in a Signature File at the end of all posts. REMEMBER, Rootsweb's rules are that ANY Signature Line must NOT exceed 4 lines, no matter what's in it. Further, I would suggest you not put your phone numbers, mailing addresses, ICQ Numbers, etc., in Signature Files. Dangerous! Regards, SgtGeorge George W. Durman List Manager

I'm looking for a subscriber to one of the Rootsweb Mailing Lists I manage who has the following email addresses in his/her Address Book, or has email sitting in his/her email program with the addresses: germannaresearch@comcast.net AND one of the following: alistair@clear.net.nz ellison@netaccess.co.nz Marilyn_McMillan@xtra.co.nz debbie.vee@clear.net.nz russhart@paradise.net.nz ian.westergaard@ihug.co.nz gale@ihug.co.nz heather.m@paradise.net.nz tumuaki@ts.co.nz If these addresses are in your Address Book, or if you have email saved in your email program from or to the addresses, please contact me via private email. We need to stop this dastardly thing right now! Thanks, SgtGeorge George W. Durman List Manager

PLEASE DO NOT REPLY TO THIS ADMIN POST HERE ON THIS LIST!!!!! If you wish to discuss anything in the post, please email me at my personal email address!!!!! ========================================== RootsWeb is seeing a lot of infected email since some criminals released the worm W32/Mydoom@MM [McAfee's name for it] aka WORM_MIMAIL.R [Trend's name for it] aka W32.Novarg.A@mm [Symantec's name for it]. As a reminder, RootsWeb's Mailing Lists do NOT and can NOT transmit e-mail that has viruses/worms/trojans in the body, since RootsWeb's anti-virus program catches all such infections. Also, RootsWeb will not forward email to the Lists if it contains HTML in the body. RootsWeb will NOT forward email to the Lists if the email has attachments. That said, let me caution that you MAY receive infected emails, or emails that have infected attachments, that APPEAR to be from a Mailing List. Let me assure you that such emails are NOT from RootsWeb. These infections "spoof" (fake) the From: addresses by searching through the infected user's computer, looking in Address Books and email residing in the user's email program. When you receive such infected email, just remember that it is NOT from the address in the From: header. There is no need to notify the supposed sender that he/she is infected, since the email was NOT from him/her. You may also receive email from some ISP saying your email could not be delivered to so-and-so because it contains a virus or worm or trojan. Just ignore such notifications. Someone with an infected computer has your email address in his/her Address Book, or has email from you in his/her email program, and the infection chose your address to put in its From: address. Please check your anti-virus software. For more info go to: http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/vinfodb.html or http://us.mcafee.com/virusInfo/default.asp?cid=9451 (And, having an anti-virus (AV) program installed will do you absolutely no good if you don't keep it updated with the latest virus information files. Nowadays, most makers of AV programs are putting out daily updates. I am now using Panda AV Platinum and it updates daily. You should have YOUR AV program configured to automatically update on a daily basis. If you don't want to do that, then you should manually check for updates daily.) SOME INFO ON CHANGES AT ROOTSWEB: In addition, RootsWeb has undergone significant modifications to its domain name lookup and IP addresses, and from their perspective this seems to have happened without incident; however, there may be consequences external to RootsWeb's network. What has happened is that, for technical reasons, RootsWeb has had its DNS addresses changed from 207.40.200.* to 66.43.18.*. This may cause problems for some of you in that your ISP may reject List mail until their servers recognize the new addresses. I think most problems have already been cleared up. IP addresses are the underlying methodology that computers use to identify and talk to each other on the internet. While most ISPs will only store (cache) RootsWeb's IP addresses for short periods, some ISPs may retain RootsWeb old details for an extended period. With regard to e-mail, it is also possible that e-mail to and from RootsWeb may be delayed until the changes have spread (propagated) throughout the internet. Also, where RootsWeb has had some mailing list servers placed on a "white list" with ISPs, these arrangements may need to be renewed, with the consequence being that Rootsweb may not be able to deliver e-mail to all ISPs at this time. AOL has been bouncing all mail from the lists (now why am I NOT surprised at that?) and there may be more affected ISP's as the day progresses. The folks at RootsWeb have been working for the past two days with AOL and others to ensure that their servers accept the new DNS addresses. Thanks for your attention! George W. Durman List Admin

This is a Message Board Post that is gatewayed to this mailing list. Surnames: Durma Classification: Query Message Board URL: http://boards.ancestry.com/mbexec/msg/an/mBU.2ACEB/22.1 Message Board Post: Into Poland at the heufigsten this name comes as Durma (785)auch Durmaj (518), Durman (233) - all data from the 1999: http://www.herby.com.pl/herby/indexslo.html much luck Barbara & Janusz Durma

This is a Message Board Post that is gatewayed to this mailing list. Classification: Query Message Board URL: http://boards.ancestry.com/mbexec/msg/an/mBU.2ACEB/20.1.1.1.1.1.1.3.1 Message Board Post: I must agree with you. That is Durmans clam up when contacted. What are they afraid of? I have traced my Durman line (UK) back to 1706 in BEERCROCOMBE, Somerset. My Pouley line to 1833 in Launcells, Cornwall. My Perry line to 1740 in Clutton, Somerset. My Bailey line to 1803 in Pill, Somerset. If you want any details of these please ask.

A SOLDIER'S CHRISTMAS: TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS, HE LIVED ALL ALONE, IN A ONE BEDROOM HOUSE MADE OF PLASTER AND STONE. I HAD COME DOWN THE CHIMNEY WITH PRESENTS TO GIVE, AND TO SEE JUST WHO IN THIS HOME DID LIVE. I LOOKED ALL ABOUT, A STRANGE SIGHT I DID SEE, NO TINSEL, NO PRESENTS, NOT EVEN A TREE. NO STOCKING BY MANTLE, JUST BOOTS FILLED WITH SAND, ON THE WALL HUNG PICTURES OF FAR DISTANT LANDS. WITH MEDALS AND BADGES, AWARDS OF ALL KINDS, A SOBER THOUGHT CAME THROUGH MY MIND. FOR THIS HOUSE WAS DIFFERENT, IT WAS DARK AND DREARY, I FOUND THE HOME OF A SOLDIER, ONCE I COULD SEE CLEARLY. THE SOLDIER LAY SLEEPING, SILENT, ALONE, CURLED UP ON THE FLOOR IN THIS ONE BEDROOM HOME. THE FACE WAS SO GENTLE, THE ROOM IN SUCH DISORDER, NOT HOW I PICTURED A UNITED STATES SOLDIER. WAS THIS THE HERO OF WHOM I'D JUST READ? CURLED UP ON A PONCHO, THE FLOOR FOR A BED? I REALIZED THE FAMILIES THAT I SAW THIS NIGHT, OWED THEIR LIVES TO THESE SOLDIERS WHO WERE WILLING TO FIGHT. SOON ROUND THE WORLD, THE CHILDREN WOULD PLAY, AND GROWNUPS WOULD CELEBRATE A BRIGHT CHRISTMAS DAY. THEY ALL ENJOYED FREEDOM EACH MONTH OF THE YEAR, BECAUSE OF THE SOLDIERS, LIKE THE ONE LYING HERE. I COULDN'T HELP WONDER HOW MANY LAY ALONE, ON A COLD CHRISTMAS EVE IN A LAND FAR FROM HOME. THE VERY THOUGHT BROUGHT A TEAR TO MY EYE, I DROPPED TO MY KNEES AND STARTED TO CRY. THE SOLDIER AWAKENED AND I HEARD A ROUGH VOICE, "SANTA DON'T CRY, THIS LIFE IS MY CHOICE; I FIGHT FOR FREEDOM, I DON'T ASK FOR MORE, MY LIFE IS MY GOD, MY COUNTRY, MY CORPS." THE SOLDIER ROLLED OVER AND DRIFTED TO SLEEP, I COULDN'T CONTROL IT, I CONTINUED TO WEEP. I KEPT WATCH FOR HOURS, SO SILENT AND STILL AND WE BOTH SHIVERED FROM THE COLD NIGHT'S CHILL. I DIDN'T WANT TO LEAVE ON THAT COLD, DARK, NIGHT, THIS GUARDIAN OF HONOR SO WILLING TO FIGHT. THEN THE SOLDIER ROLLED OVER, WITH A VOICE SOFT AND PURE, WHISPERED, "CARRY ON SANTA, IT'S CHRISTMAS DAY, ALL IS SECURE." ONE LOOK AT MY WATCH, AND I KNEW HE WAS RIGHT. "MERRY CHRISTMAS MY FRIEND, AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT." This poem was written by a Marine stationed in Okinawa, Japan, some years ago. The following is his request. I think it is reasonable..... It is still appropriate. GOD BLESS OUR SOLDIERS! PLEASE. Would you do me the kind favor of sending this to as many people as you can? Christmas will be coming soon and some credit is due to our U.S. service men and women for our being able to celebrate these festivities. Let's try in this small way to pay a tiny bit of what we owe. Make people stop and think of our heroes, living and dead, who sacrificed themselves for us. Please, do your small part to plant this small seed.

This is a Message Board Post that is gatewayed to this mailing list. Surnames: durman, laurence Classification: Obituary Message Board URL: http://boards.ancestry.com/mbexec/msg/an/mBU.2ACEB/23 Message Board Post: Source: Tri-City Herald, Pasco, WA Sept. 17, 2003 Deceased: Laurence, Virginia (Durman) Age: 92 Birth date: March 26, 1911 Birth place: Abbott, Arkansas Death date: Aug. 29, 2003 Place of death: West Richland, WA For copy of full obituary send email to: dactackm@jlink.net No relation to deceased

This is a Message Board Post that is gatewayed to this mailing list. Surnames: Durman Classification: Query Message Board URL: http://boards.ancestry.com/mbexec/msg/rw/mBU.2ACEB/22 Message Board Post: My Grandfather was Chester J. Durman and he was born in Philadelphia. His father was Joseph Durman and I believe was the one who immigrated to the USA from Poland. I was looking for any other Polish Durman's out there. We have been Durman's for generations now but there is a possiblity that our name was shortened when they entered the US.

Since most subscribers to Mailing Lists pay no attention to the "Welcome Messages" they receive after subscribing, and just delete them without reading, I'm offering this to let you know how to get another copy of it. Everyone needs to keep a copy in the same place they keep their List messages. It really comes in handy when someone needs to unsubscribe but has forgotten how to do it. Yes, as the List Manager, I CAN manually unsubscribe users, and do so more often than you would believe. If the users can unsubscribe themselves it sure saves me a lot of time and trouble. Here's how to get another copy of the "Welcome Message": 1) Send an email to: LISTNAME-L-request@rootsweb.com (if subscribed to Normal Mode) or LISTNAME-D-request@rootsweb.com (if subscribed to Digest Mode) Replace LISTNAME with the actual name of the List, e.g.: CULLOP DURMAN LOVETTE McQUILKIN CFT-WIN 2) In the subject line type just one word: archive 3) In the body type the following, exactly: get welcome.txt 4) Make sure you put nothing else in the body and turn off all signatures. List administrators also often customize information contained in the list digest "administrivia." The administrivia is the text that you find in every digest immediately following the index that explains how to unsubscribe from the digests, how to contact the list administrator, and often other helpful information such as a link to a corresponding message board. Mail mode subscribers can benefit by paying attention to the rotating taglines many list administrators place at the bottom of every list message. The taglines may contain such information as instructions for subscribing and unsubscribing, how to contact the administrator, links to the archives for the list, links to helpful webpages where list rules or other pertinent information can be found, information about how the message board gateway works if the list and board are gatewayed and possibly a link to the corresponding message board. List taglines are set by the individual volunteer administrator and are as varied as the interests and knowledge of the individual admin- istrators. Taglines are often changed from time to time . . . so it pays to look and not assume you have read them before. Not all administrators use list taglines, but those who do put the reminders there for a reason -- to keep list members informed of important information they need to know. Savvy list members pay attention to taglines. Don't be an "I didn't know that" or "I can't find it" list subscriber. Pay attention to the list guidelines provided for you in your welcome letters, digest administrivia, and list message rotating taglines. And don't let the snake bite you -- look at what's in plain sight. (The above was posted in the Rootsweb-Review Newsletter on 19 November 2003.) Regards, SgtGeorge George W. Durman List Manager

I am a Comcast Cable Net user. Yesterday, I found out that Comcast has installed a SPAM filter that is filtering all of our email before we have a chance to see it. Now, in itself, that's not a bad thing. The bad thing is that Comcast did NOT notify ANY of its users that it was using a Spam Filter. And THAT leads to problems. Comcast filters out of what its anti-spam software thinks is SPAM. It then places it in a mailbox for you, so that you can look through it and save anything that is not SPAM. OK so far. But, since Comcast didn't notify us it was doing this, we didn't know to go to the website and check the filtered email and DELETE it from the spam mailbox. Are you ahead of me? Do you see the problem? I'm sure that some of you have already figured out that for someone who daily receives hundreds of emails, that spam mailbox could fill up quickly, and THAT eats up your allowed space of 10 Mb of files. So, what happens then? You download your email several times a day, knowing that you must keep your mailbox at Comcast emptied. But, you don't know about the Spam Mailbox and all of a sudden you've used up your 10 Mb of space. Any more emails you receive are bounced back by Comcast saying that your mailbox is full. I've had several Comcast users who were unsubscribed from Rootsweb Lists because of excessive bounces. Some of those users swore their mail boxes were empty! They were! But, their Spam Mailbox was full! To me, this is one of the most perfect examples of how companies have no regard for their customers. Comcast didn't even see fit to notify us about its "new" Spam Filter, let alone tell us how to manage it. Go to: <www.comcast.net> On the left side, under "Toolbox", click on "Mail". Log in with your User Name and Password. At the top left, where it says "Change Folders", click on the down arrow and choose "Trash". There you will find all the emails that Comcast filtered out for you. Look through them to make sure there's nothing there you want to have delivered. Next, at the top right, click on "Service Center". In he middle of the window, slightly to the left, you will see "Set E-Mail Screener". Click on it. You will get a window telling you if the "Email Screener" is OFF or ON. You decide what you want to do at this point. If it is ON, there will be a link to click to make adjustments to the screener. It's up to you how you manage your account at Comcast. I just though that many of you might not know what Comcast is doing with its Spam Screener. Forewarned is forearmed. Regards, SgtGeorge George W. Durman List Manager

This is a Message Board Post that is gatewayed to this mailing list. Surnames: Durman Classification: Query Message Board URL: http://boards.ancestry.com/mbexec/msg/rw/mBU.2ACEB/21 Message Board Post: Just wanted to let everyone know that my correct email address is: GeorgeWDurman@comcast.net Regards, SgtGeorge