This is the first of a group of posts that Robert Cowan and I will make reporting on our Ireland research trip beginning Memorial Day and lasting through June 10, 2002. We met at Atlanta International early Sunday afternoon as planed for our overseas non-stop flight on Delta to Shannon Airport, Ireland. Our goals were clear and well-defined ... (1)to gather information and first hand experience on the Laggan area in Co. Donegal, Ireland, an area from which many of our Cowan kin and associated families left in the early 1700's for North America; (2) to visit Derry, the famous siege city, for research on Alderman John Cowan and certain other families whose valor and "No Surrender" attitude set a standard for independence and freedom in the Colonial Revolution and at King's Mountain; (3) to fruther our research and knowledge of the Cowan families in the North of Ireland through research in Belfast at Queen's University and at the Public Records Office of Northern Ireland (PRONI). The Delta flight was full and we could track our travel path north along the coast of the eastern US, through Maine and over Nova Scotia and Labrador and then east, just south of Iceland over the Atlantic (the Great Circle route) then south to the west of Ireland to Shannon. It was 7:30 A.M or so, wet, overcast and chilly. Robert took care of arranging for our 4-door Fiat and I exchanged dollars for Euros. We set out for Westport, one of Robert's favorite resort sites in County Mayo, just a few hours to the north. We would explore the area as tourists and spend the evening there, resting from the long flight and giving our bodies time to adjust. There's a great deal of residential building going on in Ireland, a reflection of the improved Celtic Tiger economy and infrastructure improvements as well to the major roads funded by EEC loans. We paid tribute to Patrick, Ireland's patron Saint by visiting Krough Patrick, Ireland's Holy Mountain, quite spectacular, craggy and shrouded in mist and fog. The ascention to the top ... we left to the faithful pilgrims and moved on to a hearty traditional Irish lunch and libations at a nearby pub at the foot of the mountain. We toured with Robert at the helm the vast and wild area around Clifton ... enjoying the grandeur of the mountains and a somewhat peaceful desolation in the remote and unpopulated peninsula jutting westward into the Atlantic. The soil is rocky and thin and the pastures suitable only for sheep which ranged freely over the inhospitable terrain. In early evening, we returned to Wesport, the roads torn beyond Robert's prior recognition and much to his chagrin. We were able to secure accomodations at a central location, the Old Railway Hotel, a Victorian era watering hole, the soft, creaky floors heavily carpeted, the hallways and anterooms filled with authentic period furniture. Thackery called the Hotel the "most comfortableist inn in Westport," and they haven't tried to alter that impression to be a Holiday Inn, although the bath had been modernized and was commodious. Half a block down the street, over a small bridge and into the colorful area of shops and stores was Matt Malloy's Pub ... our destination of choice. The place gradually got fuller and fuller, seems that a contingent of Canadians on a Celtic music voyage and excursion had tied up in the harbor. Then the word started to spread, Matt was in and was going to play. In 15 years, Robert had never seen Matt Malloy at the Pub let alone heard him play there. Matt is the head musician of the Chieftians, the very popular and long-time successful Irish instrumental group. Elegant in a long black leather jacket, well-trimmed beard, balding, Matt made his way through the pub to the back room, where he picked up his flute and started to jam with two County Mayo accordianists. It was such a surprise and a wonderful and special experience to be just inches away from a world class musician just playing and playing because he loves the music ... no agenda set except the well known local favorites. Little did we know at that time, that surprise, the unexpected and quality would set the tone of our research and social efforts. jcmaclay