"Margy Bousman" <mbousman7@cox.net> writes: > Hi, > > Can anyone tell me about the King's festival? I'm interested in hearing > about the sharing of the King's cake and the recipe (of course). > > Margy ========================= I found this article on the Kingcake written by — Graham Button, www.MardiGrasUnmasked.com =========== King cake: A rich tradition Along with beads and parade floats, king cake has come to symbolize the notion of Mardi Gras as a time of boisterous frivolity. The unofficial food of the gala, the sticky, coffee cake-type pastry—typically festooned with sugar or sprinkles in the Mardi Gras colors of purple, green a nd gold/yellow—is indeed a tasty excuse to cut loose, a popular (and undemanding) way to partake in the festive, diet-be-damned spirit of the season. It's estimated that New Orleans-area bakeries, in the weeks leading up to Fat Tuesday, produce over a million king cakes. Perhaps one third of the total are express-shipped to destinations far and wide, making the local specialty a sort of gastronomic greeting—an expression of good will for corporate customers, distant friends and displaced family members unable to experience the festivities in person. Included with each cake is a small plastic "baby," typically hidden in the dough or underneath the cake. In New Orleans, popular custom holds that the finder of the baby must purchase the next cake and throw a party. King cake came to be associated with Mardi Gras because its traditional appearance on Epiphany (January 6), also known as Twelfth Night or King's Day, signals the start of the season of merriment (i.e., Carnival) that runs through Fat Tuesday. (Because the day before Ash Wednesday, which marks the beginning of the Lenten season of atonement and abstinence, was one of feasting, it came to be known as Fat Tuesday or, as the French would say, Mardi Gras.) In the story of the Epiphany, as related in the gospel of Matthew, "three wise men from the east" visited the baby Jesus in Bethlehem on the twelfth day following his birth. Epiphany became the day appointed by the Church to celebrate the revelation of Christ's divinity to mankind. In the 4th century, the western world's most influential preacher, St. Augustine, romanticized and embellished the story of the Epiphany. The gift-bearing wise men became "kings," and Epiphany, the twelfth day of Christmas, evolved into a major holiday imbued with royal associations. While the Twelfth Night customs that spread throughout Europe were subject to numerous variations, one element transcended virtually every culture that observed the holiday: the choice of a mock king for the occasion. The ritual of hiding a tiny treasure in a celebratory cake was a symbolic reenactment of Epiphany. In France, the bean—la feve—eventually was replaced by a bean-sized baby Jesus; its discovery commemorated the discovery of Jesus' divinity by the Magi. Legend has it that the cakes were made in the shape of a ring and colorfully decorated to resemble a bejeweled crown. It became a tradition to serve the cake with paper or cardboard crown on top. Whoever found the hidden trinket, would get to wear the crown and choose a royal consort. In colonial New Orleans, Creoles, as residents of French and Spanish decent took to calling themselves, adopted the French Twelfth Night cake custom and melded it with their party-loving ways—in particular, the Spanish custom of throwing grand balls where a king and queen were chosen. By the late 18th century, a season of balls, called les bals des Rois (the balls of kings), was well established. On Twelfth Night, the celebrants would wait until the stroke of midnight to cut the cake—a French-style pastry, gateau des Rois, filled with frangipane (made from almond paste, eggs, butter and sugar). Inside was a bean, almond, pecan or perhaps even a jeweled ring. Each week a new king and queen were crowned (the finder of the hidden trinket would get to choose his or her consort). The reigning queen would host the next soirèe at her home; the king, however, was expected to foot the bill. The role of king cake in divining Carnival royalty is most closely associated with the Twelfth Night Revelers (TNR). One of New Orleans Carnival's most socially elite organizations, TNR held its first pageant on January 6, 1870—a procession of floats, or tableaux roulants (rolling tableaux), followed by a ball where the first queen in New Orleans Carnival history was due to be anointed. But after a gigantic cake containing a gold bean was rolled out and sliced, things quickly got out of hand. An attempt was made to distribute slices from the ends of spears that some of the krewemen had carried in the parade; slices were also reportedly thrown to ladies sitting in boxes. If any lady found the bean, she did not step forward. Quite possibly, the trinket was simply lost amid the confusion. At the ball the following year, TNR's monarch, the Lord of Misrule, wasn't about to leave anything to chance. Indeed, as described in Henri Schindler's book Mardi Gras: New Orleans, he "knew which slice contained the bean, and when he saw the young lady receive it, strode to her and before the assembled guests, crowned her Queen of the Ball." While the practice of using king cake to choose royalty was never widely imitated by other Carnival krewes, the toothsome treat nevertheless became more than just a symbol of the festivities: At weekend king cake parties, generations of New Orleans children became familiarized with mock royalty—a concept fundamental to the rituals of Carnival—and teenagers learned the social niceties of drinking, dancing and mingling with members of the opposite sex. Alas, times have changed. Nowadays, teenagers are more likely to have king cake in school than at king cake parties. As for adults, offices have become a prime venue for seasonal rituals involving king cake. The cakes themselves have changed, as well. The almond-paste-filled pastry puff that's traditionally associated with northern France—the gateau des Rois enjoyed by the old Creole gentry in New Orleans—can still be found at some specialty bakeries. But by far the most popular style of king cake these days has more in common with the Bordeaux Twelfth Night cake of southern France—the couronne, French for "crown," which is made from brioche dough. (Key differences: The New Orleans version is rolled with cinnamon, covered with purple, green and gold sugar or sprinkles and typically comes iced rather than glazed.) New Orleans bakers, a decidedly restless and competitive breed, are generally more prone to experimentation and innovation than their more tradition-minded Gallic counterparts—at least when it comes to king cake. Chocolate, blueberry, cream cheese, pecan praline, even crawfish—these are but a few of the fillings now offered in New Orelans-style king cake. Moreover, king cakes come in shapes and colors to complement just about any holiday or special occasion. Meanwhile, thanks to the advent of express-shipping services, New Orleans king cake culture has spread throughout the United States and beyond. As a result, "I got the baby!"—the cry announcing that a party-goer has received the slice of cake with the baby—is literally, during Mardi Gras time, a cry heard round the world. — Graham Button, www.MardiGrasUnmasked.com ============================ Another tradition of Louisiana are the Christmas Bonfires that line the levees on both sides of the Mississippi River on Christmas Eve Approximately 100 bonfires spaced 30 to 40 feet apart over a distance of about 5 miles on top of the levee. Tradition has it that these Bonfires or "les feux de joie" light the way for the Christ Child to attend Midnight Mass. Also it is said that they light the way for the arrival of Papa Noel (Santa Claus). Building bonfires is a family custom. Many families have been building bonfires on the same site on the levee for generations. Each year, the youngest family members are taught the ways and manner of bonfire construction. This includes where to find the right type of wood and what qualities to look for when selecting wood for the bonfire. Construction of the bonfires begins around Thanksgiving Upon completion, cane reed, a type of bamboo, is placed around the sides of the bonfire. When burned the cane reed cracks and pops like fireworks and adds an extra audio effect to the festive spectacle. At 7PM on Christmas Eve, the signal is given by the local volunteer fire departments to light the bonfires. It is quite a site to behold---bonfires ablaze, crackling sounds of burning cane reed. Fireworks are exploding everywhere. The best way to experience the Christmas bonfires is by walking along the levee. Along the way, you can stop and sample gumbo cooked by one of the local volunteer fire departments. Paddle-wheel boats travel from New Orleans to St James Parish. They usually announce their arrival with Christmas carols played on the steam-powered calliope. If you would like to have a truly unique Christmas Eve experience, come witness the Christmas bonfires in St. James Parish. 1998 Gramercy Vol. Fire Department Bonfire Questions or comments about the Christmas bonfires of St James Parish. ========================= Then there is a revival of the traditional "Revillon" A few years back, the celebration of the traditional "Revillion" was instituted by many of the Local New Orleans and Louisiana Restaurants. The custom, celebrated in France and extended to French Canada and Louisiana, consisted of a late supper known as "le réveillon.", served when the family returns home after Midnight Mass. The meal varies according to the region of France. In Alsace, for example, the traditional goose is brought in on a platter and given the place of honor on the table. Bretons serve buckwheat cakes with sour cream. Turkey and chestnuts are served in Burgundy. The favorite dishes of Paris and the Ile-de-France region are oysters, foie gras, and the traditional cake in the form of a Yule log or "bûche de Noël" which used to burn on the hearth on Christmas Eve. The wines served are generally Muscadet, Anjou, Sauterne and Champagne. In Louisiana it may consist of the traditional dishes served at Christmas and may include some of the popular Cajun dishes, such as Gumbo, Jambalaya, sauce Piquant, etc. My family traditionally served chicken gumbo filé with sausage and oysters. Now we have our traditional Christmas feast on Christmas Eve and exchange gifts. This leaves the individual families to celebrate Christmas with their own families and be present when Santa arrives in the morning. Latter on Christmas Day, we visit and have desserts. MERRY CHRISTMAS